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Break problem

Old Aug 7, 2014 | 02:35 PM
  #11  
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maddghost
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Originally Posted by JamesRHey
I have the same problem. Had a state inspection tech point it out to me a few months back. I didn't think anything of it, as my braking ability is a strong as ever, but my brake light only goes off when I push the brake lever forward. Thanx for the info, now that I now what I'm dealing with I'll have the techs take a look next time I drop it off for service, which be very soon. Last thing I need to do is try to fix it myself, having 'extra parts' after a brake job is not a reassuring feeling.
The thing is your brake light is always on which is bad for three reasons
1: Cars can't tell you have just laid the brake on because the light was already on
2: Cars can't tell you have just laid the brake on because the light was already on
3:the extra heat could cause certain circuits to over heat and cause damage
 
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 03:07 PM
  #12  
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JamesRHey
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From: Richardson, Texas
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Originally Posted by maddghost
The thing is your brake light is always on which is bad for three reasons
1: Cars can't tell you have just laid the brake on because the light was already on
2: Cars can't tell you have just laid the brake on because the light was already on
3:the extra heat could cause certain circuits to over heat and cause damage

All three, or both, of those are very valid reasons. And I would be an idiot to try to argue that ignoring any brake issue is okay. Nothing beats making a first impression as the stupid new guy. I will take a deeper look at this when i get home, and if need be have the HD techs work some magic. I'll post an update as to the outcome, in a new thread so as not to add "thread hijacker" to my first impression list.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 11:25 PM
  #13  
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That's exactly what I'm experiencing. If I push the lever forward, light goes off. My guess has been microswitch is just fine. I think it's too early for a rebuild kit, bike is a 2013 dyna. Any options on how to clean it to see if it gets better?

Thanks, specially for describing my issue just as it is.

Originally Posted by maddghost
I want to know when you push your brake lever open does the brake light go out? If it goes out then you will need a rebuild kit for that little pump in the bottom of the reservoir. Nobody can explain it, they don't show signs of wear but when that happens you can play with it all you want and loose time or replace it and boom your fixed.

On the other hand if you press your lever open and the light does not turn off you will need a new micro-switch inside the throttle housing.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 11:37 PM
  #14  
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I will be doing a complete maintenance to the break system next week. I did try some WD-40 on it and it was better for about one day, but it was probably because I pushed and pulled the piston with some pliers and it got some air. I actually want to do a break system flush, put in new break fluid, clean all the parts thoroughly and see if it's probably something clogging the breaks.

Bike does break fine but fear electrical damage, burning of break light, and mainly being rear ended as cars won't know when I hit my breaks.

Any tips or links on how to take the system a part. I saw a few videos on flushing the system, but none for a complete take a part for cleaning.

Springless? I was actually worried the problem could be a defective spring.



Originally Posted by mattVA
LAFO. .before you go messing around with a rebuild kit, etc. Get a can of silicone spray lube and spray that plunger and work it in and out with the lever. I think you'll find it'll fix your problem. My M/C was replaced under warranty for same issue, which fixed it. Problem was starting to slowly return so I used some silicone grease I had around (used for brake caliper parts) and smeared it in there and worked the lever. Immediately I noticed an improvement, and over the next day or two it only got better.

Rubber dries out over time and becomes less flexible. I believe this to be the reason this happens on our bikes. Recently worked on a friends EVO Softail and found the old system did not have this issue. Strong spring in there forces the lever out fully. Our bikes rely on the hydraulic return pressure to push the plunger of the M/C out which returns the lever to its normal position. Not nearly as effective I think.
 
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