I have a 08 Sportster 1200, I've never had it started. Just bought it for pretty cheap and was told it only needed a new battery. Well after a new battery and a new sensor, still no luck. It cranks just short of turning over, and I'm pretty sure the only thing stopping it is that it doesn't see the sensor, which is said to prevent it from starting. I assume there's some kind of loose wire somewhere but I have no idea what to check, where to check it, or how, and I lack a lot of tools like a multimeter. It doesn't help that I work in a national park and there's not a real store for almost a hundred miles and of course no mechanic shop either. So I feel kinda screwed. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Welcome to the Forum from UT.

Will the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you turn ign on and kill switch to run?
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I have a Elect. Diagnostic Manual for a 2010 touring. I'll post a couple pages from it and you can run the tests. It will say to connect a Breakout box and wire harness connector but you can do the tests with out.

Another test you could do is pull the system relay and put a jumper between the w/bk and y/gn wire. This will power up the fuel pump whenever the ign and kill switch is on so be careful. Try it and see if it will start.

 

 

Thanks for the reply!
I turn the ignition and I can hear the fuel pump, I go to start it and it does a couple attempts before cutting out, which I'm pretty sure it does because of the sensor not being detected.

I'll try to check out the wiring but even with all the diagrams it all feels like chinese to me.

 

Sounds like something is not making the proper connection there. When you say "it does a couple attempts before cutting out"... do you me it cranks, but does not start, may sputter a bit? Cranks, then stops cranking, and no power?, or something else?

Try the relay trick like Vernal suggests. You should also check your fuses, including the Maxi-Fuse. Also double check you battery cable connections on both ends. Make sure they are clean and tight. You probably need a test light or multi meter to properly chase down your gremlin.

 

I agree. I'm sure somewhere there is some kind of loose connection or something, dont really have the time or tools to figure it out immediately unfortunately.

Yeah it cranks and cuts out, pretty sure only because the sensor isnt detected.

The fuses look kinda gross but they dont appear blown. I can try replacing them anyway.

 

Is there a NPS mechanic where you work? If so maybe he would have a multimeter you could borrow or better yet maybe help you troubleshoot the bike.

How relays work: https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...7&action=click

The ECM controls the ground for the system relay. When the relay is energized the contact closes and power from the ECM fuse goes through the relay contact to the Ignition module, fuel injectors and fuel pump fuse. The BE/GY wire from the ECM fuse is powered up 24/7, straight from the battery through the maxi fuse. this wire is also connected to the System relay normally open contact. Energize the relay and the contact closes and the BE/GY wire powers up the Y/GN wire going to the Ign Module,Fuel injectors and Fuel pump.

Turn Ign on, then turn the kill switch to run and the ECM sees an input on #13 Switched power, the same W/BK wire that goes to the System Relay Coil.On the large color Schematic look at the top center for the W/BK coming from the Right Hand Controls connector. The ECM will provide ground to the relay coil with the GN/O wire for 2 seconds if it doesn't get a signal from the CKP that the engine is rotating. Hit the starter and the engine rotates and the CKP gives a AC Voltage to the ECM and it provides ground to the relay so the contact can close.

Looking at the big schematic again you see the CKP at the top left and you can follow the Red and Black wires to the ECM. Check those wires to make sure they have continuity from end to end and are not shorted to each other or any other wire.

With the ignition off and kill switch to stop pull the System relay and put a jumper from 86 to 87 W/BK to Y/GN when you turn both switches on the fuel pump should run continuously. Hit the starter soon after turning the kill switch on and see if the bike will run. Don't leave the pump running without the bike running.

Make a list of things you may need, I'd start with:
Multimeter
test light
wire strippers
connectors
crimpers
cutters
heat shrink
elect tape
Soldering iron
solder

You own a Harley now, time to tool up
If there is a harbor freight , Walley or other big box store in the big city most of the tools can be found at a fair price. Amazon would work too.....

 

Did it have the same code before and after replacing the sensor? If so, look for a bad socket connection - start simple.

 

Yeah same code but I have no idea what you mean or what to do about that. Sorry if I sound like a total idiot

 

Make sure the female sides of the plug are not spread wide or broken and that the male sides are straight and looks like they will snugly plug into the female side.