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Starter solenoid doesn't run - but power is available?!
Hello,
my 92 FHLS fails to start the engine. Pushing the starter button, I just hear a click in the relais - but no moving of the solenoid inside the coil. I removed the lid and want to narrow down the error.
I'm not quite sure, if I just have a simple poor electrical connection to the frame or whatever. If I take my voltmeter and check the voltage between the battery minus and the withdrawn plug #3 (see photo), it's 12V if starter button is pressed. Also the voltage between #1 and #2 is 12V and if I push the solenoid by hand, the starter engine gets power and start running. Where do I have to measure if I want to know, whether the voltage from plugged # 3 arrives where it belongs?
Just get the solenoid rebuild kit and rebuild the solenoid, prices range from about $20-$30 US maybe more internationally. Sounds like there is an open in the windings of the electromagnet side.
Last edited by Zanthamos; Feb 29, 2020 at 12:33 PM.
For other reasons I changed the engine in Winter. I had the checked starter from another bike and installed it.
Now I have the same error pattern, even though I changed the whole starter.
The rebuild kit I've in stock. But if I change just the solenoid (you can do that easy without removing the starter) - nothing happens. That's why I guess, the error must be at another location.
Does it have a cube relay? I went through 2 in 6 months. Then I modified 1and reinstalled it. Its not given me ant more problem. Its been trouble free for 8 years now
Yes, it have a cube relay. But I changed it also already (it's cheap) and it "clicks" if a press the start button. Because there's voltage at plug #3 (comes from the reley) if starter is pressed, I decided it's ok.
I still think it's a ground fault. But how can I measure that?
Because there's voltage at plug #3 (comes from the reley) if starter is pressed, I decided it's ok.
Not necessarily so...
The only to accurately check is to read the voltage on the circuit while it is under load.
When the connector is unplugged, the circuit only has to supply enough amperage to power the voltmeter, which draws only a few milliamps.
When the circuit is complete, it must supply 12 volts at a much higher amperage (whatever the solenoid pull in coils draw).
Test that circuit with the connectors hooked up to the relay and solenoid and see what you get.
To check ground in that circuit, touch the negative probe to the negative post on the battery, touch the positive probe to the starter mount bolt, press starter button, voltage should read zero. If you read any voltage, the ground is poor.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Feb 29, 2020 at 05:48 PM.
New status:
I did as you recommended and checked the ground. Everything is fine - no voltage.
The I made another simple test - I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier: I bridged directly to the plug #3 with the positive pole of the battery. The magnet moved in immediately, the starter got power and started to run. For mee - the starter is okay!Now I've to check the cables before the starter and relais. Any recommendations?
You need to check the voltage at #3 (while starter button is pressed), with the wire still connected to the starter solenoid, you can touch the voltmeter probe to either end of that wire, whichever end you can get the probe on, this way you will be testing that circuit under a load.
It was just some corroded pins and cables at the starter relay. I cleaned it and put some battery grease on the pins and now it runs fine 🙂
Thanks for all the help 👍
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Starter solenoid doesn't run - but power is available?!
