intermittent blinkers
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,614
Likes: 6,440
From: Honah Lee
Too cool. Those connections are important. Like a boat anchor or a sink drain, if it's not connected, they don't work well. I have seen it do what yours was doing and it was the light bulb.
Older Harleys' use to have a little disk in the lamp housing that kept the bulb contacts separate. The disk would crack and bike vibration would make and brake cross connections.
Older Harleys' use to have a little disk in the lamp housing that kept the bulb contacts separate. The disk would crack and bike vibration would make and brake cross connections.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Nov 28, 2020 at 05:17 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 74
Likes: 15
From: Hampshire, England
Congrats
on getting your indicators sorted, Aussiemick
Mine, on the other hand, are still playing up.
After having cleaned & checked the front ones, plus the connector blocks in the headlamp, all seemed ok.
A test run, however, came up with
LH Will blink at lower speeds, but stay on at higher revs.
RH Will try & blink but not properly go on off if you get my drift.
Back to the bat-cave. All tests as per the manual (checking for signals from the switches, bridging pins, a good earth via the black lead). Were ok. I checked for voltage at the accessories fuse - ok, same as the battery, so the ignition switch is good. I checked the voltage of the L&R switch signals. Both about 1 volt down from the battery voltage, but then, the lights were on at the time as well, so I figured that was ok.
The hazards work ok.
Its the module, isnt it?
Andy
95 883 Sportster
Hampshire
UK
on getting your indicators sorted, Aussiemick
Mine, on the other hand, are still playing up.
After having cleaned & checked the front ones, plus the connector blocks in the headlamp, all seemed ok.
A test run, however, came up with
LH Will blink at lower speeds, but stay on at higher revs.
RH Will try & blink but not properly go on off if you get my drift.
Back to the bat-cave. All tests as per the manual (checking for signals from the switches, bridging pins, a good earth via the black lead). Were ok. I checked for voltage at the accessories fuse - ok, same as the battery, so the ignition switch is good. I checked the voltage of the L&R switch signals. Both about 1 volt down from the battery voltage, but then, the lights were on at the time as well, so I figured that was ok.
The hazards work ok.
Its the module, isnt it?
Andy
95 883 Sportster
Hampshire
UK
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 74
Likes: 15
From: Hampshire, England
Its the module....
After having checked pretty much everything, I got to puzzling why cant you test the turn module?
I dont want to spend a fortune on a new module unless I have some proof.
Suddenly 💡 Inspiration!!!
I could test the module!
Here was my cunning plan:- the problem was on the LH side. If I swapped over the leads into the module (the pulse signal leads and the switch leads) I would make the Rh switch operate the left turn signals and the Lh switch do the right hand side!
So?
So...... If the symptoms stayed with the Rh side (so I figured) it would prove that there was a wiring glitch.
But if the fault moved across to the Lh side, it would prove theres an internal fault in the Rh pulse signal circuitry.
The fault moved....
Bugger.
Andy
95 Sportster 883
Hampshire
UK
I dont want to spend a fortune on a new module unless I have some proof.
Suddenly 💡 Inspiration!!!
I could test the module!
Here was my cunning plan:- the problem was on the LH side. If I swapped over the leads into the module (the pulse signal leads and the switch leads) I would make the Rh switch operate the left turn signals and the Lh switch do the right hand side!
So?
So...... If the symptoms stayed with the Rh side (so I figured) it would prove that there was a wiring glitch.
But if the fault moved across to the Lh side, it would prove theres an internal fault in the Rh pulse signal circuitry.
The fault moved....
Bugger.
Andy
95 Sportster 883
Hampshire
UK
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 74
Likes: 15
From: Hampshire, England
And the next thing that happened.....
So,
having identified the dodgy indicator module by subtle process of deductivation, I celebrated by treating myself to a flashy multimeter.
Armed with said device, I thought Id do a quick charging voltage check across the battery terminals (I had been topping up the battery rather frequently, before I bought a new one a little while ago).
Result:- fast idle voltage = 17.9.....
Looks like I need a new regulator. Bugger #2
At least Ive had plenty of spending cash, thanks to this wretched virus and its side-effects....💷
Andy
95 XLH Sportster
12 FLS Slim
Hampshire
England
PS Take care of yourselves & each-other over there, especially for the next few days 🇺🇸
having identified the dodgy indicator module by subtle process of deductivation, I celebrated by treating myself to a flashy multimeter.
Armed with said device, I thought Id do a quick charging voltage check across the battery terminals (I had been topping up the battery rather frequently, before I bought a new one a little while ago).
Result:- fast idle voltage = 17.9.....
Looks like I need a new regulator. Bugger #2
At least Ive had plenty of spending cash, thanks to this wretched virus and its side-effects....💷
Andy
95 XLH Sportster
12 FLS Slim
Hampshire
England
PS Take care of yourselves & each-other over there, especially for the next few days 🇺🇸
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Raul Duke
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
8
Apr 13, 2016 03:29 PM
