Electrical/Lighting/Alarm Having electrical problems? Discussion on everything electrical and lighting systems.

Voltage drops significantly when breaks applied.

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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 11:42 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by im
You state "So I've had the bike for about a year and a half. I've changed the voltage regular, and the battery (twice)."
Why did you change voltage regulator?
Why did you change battery twice?
What diagnostics have been performed?

voltage regulator tested bad, as well as the batteries. Granted, the second one may have been unwarranted. Getting ready to do some testing now.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 12:12 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by im
You state "So I've had the bike for about a year and a half. I've changed the voltage regular, and the battery (twice)."
Why did you change voltage regulator?
Why did you change battery twice?
What diagnostics have been performed?

voltage regulator tested bad, as well as the batteries. Granted, the second one may have been unwarranted. Getting ready to do some testing now.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 12:19 PM
  #13  
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First off, I appreciate all the help. I’m usually good with the mechanics, but electrical drives me batty.

ok.. load tested battery (I happen to work at AutoZone). Tested good, 11.79 volts 0% charge.

with engine running, 14.05 V @3600 rpm.

I couldn’t get any ready on my meter across the regulator pins. It would show a number then drop to zero.

positive probe on regulator pin and black on negative batt post… started about .55 volts and dropping as I watched.

stator check, I believe is fine.. aprox 19.5 vac @1k rpm and 39.5 to 40.1 vac @2k rpm.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 12:22 PM
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Please clarify your original post:

You say the voltage drops significantly, have you verified this with a voltmeter (not the dash voltmeter)?

Connect a voltmeter to the battery posts and read the voltage with the engine running, spotlights on.

Does it read the same as the voltmeter in the dash?

Does the turn signal cause the voltmeter to vary like the dash voltmeter?

If you have to charge the battery after a few days, either the battery is bad, or you have a parasitic drain.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery post.

Set your meter to read milliamps.

Touch one probe to the negative battery post.

Touch the other probe to the disconnected end of the negative cable.

What is the milliamp reading?

Wiring Diagrams and Troubleshooting
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Mar 16, 2022 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 01:12 PM
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Ok. Sorry I thought I had other info there but I didn’t. (And will do the parasitic test when I can.

its not just the volt meter on the dash. When I hit the brakes the radio will stop working for a second, the lights dim, at certain points the blinkers wont work.

Ran out of time during lunch so will do the other tests suggested when I can.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
If you have to charge the battery after a few days, either the battery is bad, or you have a parasitic drain.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery post.

Set your meter to read milliamps.

Touch one probe to the negative battery post.

Touch the other probe to the disconnected end of the negative cable.

What is the milliamp reading?

Wiring Diagrams and Troubleshooting
reads 5.8 ma…. Looks like its within acceptable range, but something is drawing power.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 05:38 PM
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What does the wire loom under rear fender look like?
Reason:
Perhaps the wire loom is damaged in some way due to wire scrub from tire and when pressing the brake it causes a another circuit to energize.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RogueGunny
reads 5.8 ma…. Looks like its within acceptable range, but something is drawing power.
Something always draws power, as long as it is within service manual limits it is ok.
 
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