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I have a 2009 Ultra Classic and tonight I noticed that my brake lights don't come on (or could be stuck on) Both the hand/foot brake engage the relay (hear it click), I checked the fuses and they are all good. With the bike in acc I pulled the brake relay & 15amp brake fuse and did not notice a difference in brightness (checking to make sure my brake lights aren't stuck on). I took out the brake light lens and checked the wires with a test light and everything is getting power.
There is a harness connector under the seat that I am not seeing it's male end...no clue has anything to do with this.
Any ideas?
Last edited by fastsoup; Mar 21, 2022 at 12:03 AM.
You say you are getting power to the taillight. It's one side of the dual element bulb. If both wires to the tailight show power, it's stuck on also. The switch in the clamshell on the bars or the rear hydraulic switch on the rear hydraulic line is stuck on .
If stuck on, pull one wire off hydraulic switch too find out which switch is bad . If it doesn't go out, it's the front.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 21, 2022 at 12:59 AM.
I bought a 2009 RKC brand new and after a couple of years of riding it was having some trouble with the lights and my cruise wouldn't set. Turns out that there was a recall because of the rear brake light switch. Seeing as your bike is the same year as mine was it might be a possibility.
You say you are getting power to the taillight. It's one side of the dual element bulb. If both wires to the tailight show power, it's stuck on also. The switch in the clamshell on the bars or the rear hydraulic switch on the rear hydraulic line is stuck on .
If stuck on, pull one wire off hydraulic switch too find out which switch is bad . If it doesn't go out, it's the front.
It's an aftermarket LED tail light, but all the wires (except for the ground) light up on test light. Now I thought that was because it plays a role as dual light (tail & brake).
I will have to try your suggestion after work today...there is a switch on the brake line with 2 wires going to it (near the transmission) so just pull one of those connectors off? How about the one on the front brake lever? Do I need to dissemble the switch housing? If so, how do I test that? Just unplug it?
The pigtail that comes out and connects to the light? What did you do to fix it?
Correct . I had power up to the pigtail connection (93A) but not at the pigtail end. My Indy had an extra kicking around and replaced it. Problem solved. You sound like you have power at the pigtail end so not the same issue.
It's an aftermarket LED tail light, but all the wires (except for the ground) light up on test light. Now I thought that was because it plays a role as dual light (tail & brake).
I will have to try your suggestion after work today...there is a switch on the brake line with 2 wires going to it (near the transmission) so just pull one of those connectors off? How about the one on the front brake lever? Do I need to dissemble the switch housing? If so, how do I test that? Just unplug it?
Try to power the light by connecting it directly to the battery with a bit of wire, or with an aux power source on the workbench.
The LED lights that most end up with are made pretty poorly and the solder connections at the PCBA and/or pin connections inside the actual connector are not very reliable.
It's an aftermarket LED tail light, but all the wires (except for the ground) light up on test light. Now I thought that was because it plays a role as dual light (tail & brake).
I will have to try your suggestion after work today...there is a switch on the brake line with 2 wires going to it (near the transmission) so just pull one of those connectors off? How about the one on the front brake lever? Do I need to dissemble the switch housing? If so, how do I test that? Just unplug it?
Since it's gone non OEM, is there a control that just uses the same LED for run and brake by just making it brighter?
Over the internet, things get totally confusing especially non OEM.
To answer you question, either wire on the hydraulic switch. But to test the actual switch, the one leading to the rear.
Use wire circuit above to break wire to check front one in clam shell but it pretty confusing. I 'm traveling, so dont have access. I just work with hydraulic one. Once its broken, and problem then points to front one bad.. Probably not both switches are bad.
I put a LED bulb in my syandard taillight. I have the brake,run diodes box. With regular bulb, I was on 3rd hydraulic switch and second clamshell one. AUTO ZONE has a lifetime hydraulic switch.
Yours in the clamshell is the whole modular unit. Mine is a $10. ebay micro switch.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 21, 2022 at 03:23 PM.
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No brake lights
