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DVOM and Stator test question

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Old Mar 8, 2024 | 02:02 PM
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Question DVOM and Stator test question

A week ago I was out riding with some friends and after our lunch stop my motorcycle (2011 Ultra, 218K miles) wouldn't start. My friend had one of those jump boxes and we were able to get my motorcycle started and I was able to get back home. It was cold this particular day and I was riding with my electric jacket liner, electric gloves and my heated seat on. Normally, this isn't an issue as I typically keep an eye on my voltage gauge. On this particular day I did notice that the voltage gauge was hitting 11 volts just before lunch, which is very unusual. I had a feeling something was wrong. I have the original OEM stator and voltage regulator in this motorcycle.
When I got home I put the battery on the battery tender and when it was fully charged I did a load test (carbon pile tester) and a battery test. All looks good. Battery (Deka ETX30L) is only 44 months old
I'm testing the stator today. According to the factory service manual, I should read 0.1 to 0.3 ohms across the stator terminals. I'm reading 0.0 ohms with my Klein CL800 meter. I actually have a replacement stator I purchased a few months ago (Cycle Electric CE-8012). I tested the new Cycle Electric stator and I'm also reading 0.0 ohms. I've placed the meter in both auto ranging and non auto ranging modes and I get the same reading. Am I doing something incorrectly with my meter trying to read the ohms?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2024 | 02:25 PM
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Most likely just too low for the meter. Are you getting anything to ground from each terminal? What is the voltage output (ac)?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2024 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chopper_man
Most likely just too low for the meter. Are you getting anything to ground from each terminal? What is the voltage output (ac)?
None of the terminals are grounded. About 22 VAC (idle, 1000 rpms) at all three contacts.
This is supposed to be a good meter. I'm surprised it can't measure the resistance.

I'm thinking the voltage regulator may be defective. I did notice the voltage drop on my gauge (11 volts) just before my lunch stop. And after lunch, I saw the voltage jump to 15+ volts. I've never seen the voltage go that high as I was riding in the past.
 

Last edited by LQQK_OUT; Mar 8, 2024 at 03:21 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2024 | 03:12 PM
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That's perfect voltage. How's output of the regulator?

As for the meter, Klein is real decent. Does it have the ability in non-auto to be set at 1 ohm? Some of them will move the decimal point to the left, if you can get it to say 0.000 that would be the lowest and should be able to read it.

When using all 3 heated gear next time, try turning off the radio and see if the voltage gauge goes up. Perhaps just too much draw?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2024 | 03:34 PM
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You're getting a reading of 0.0 ohms because the stator is shorted. Touch you meter leads together and you'll get 0.0 ohms, ie; no resistance.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2024 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by KK0G
You're getting a reading of 0.0 ohms because the stator is shorted. Touch you meter leads together and you'll get 0.0 ohms, ie; no resistance.
If he had a shorted stator it wouldn't be putting out 21v. It's the meter.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2024 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by chopper_man
If he had a shorted stator it wouldn't be putting out 21v. It's the meter.
Absolutely correct! It was user error on my part in regards to the meter. I hit the "range" button to take it out of the auto-ranging mode. But I didn't realize I needed to keep hitting the range button to put the meter in the appropriate range, which was the 600 ohm range. Once I did that, I was able to measure 0.1 ohms on each of the stator connections.

I also measured the DCV of the voltage regulator and it measured good. But I still think I may have an intermittent problem with the voltage regulator. I'll keep a close eye on my voltage gauge for the next couple of weeks.

Thank you!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2024 | 08:42 AM
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voltage is only one part of the equation. you can have voltage and not amps and the other way around. using an alternator as an example, if the belt slips, you can have voltage but if the alternator does not come up to speed there will be reduced amps.
the pmg is not an alternator of sorts largely it is not excited. the pmg is fixed and operates best if it is in designed rpm range. if you pull too many amps at a low rpm, you will see the voltage go down. the hd regulator is tied in to the battery ahead of the system so if you have issue with the battery or circuits, it will max out. if system is operating as designed, the machine runs off the regulator and the battery making up the short fall, but if the short fall is too great, the battery will discharge. figure your total system load and add 20% needed to maintain battery, if not within pmg range, you need to reduce load.
if you make a test harness, you can have the regulator tested at many auto parts stores.
i had an issue similar and it was not detectable until total fail was knocking at the door. it was a corroded out connection on the pmg wire to harness inside the primary. it would ohm correct but there was not enough strands to carry the load.
remember, the pmg output is AC and the amperage is a fraction of the DC coming out the regulator.


what type of oil do you use?? if it contains a sulfur additive used as an ep, it will react with the copper and dissolve it.
 

Last edited by bustert; Mar 9, 2024 at 08:45 AM.
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