Hey Everyone,

I'm new here, so I hope I've done this right. Sorry if this is a bit long, just want to give enough info. I'm having some trouble with my bike and would like to know some of your opinions on what could be the problem and possible solutions. This might be 1 or more problems not sure if they're connected at all.

The symptoms:
1) After riding a while, when the bike seems hot, it begins to struggle idling. If I pull the clutch in while rolling down the highway it will stall. If I come to a stop and release the throttle it will stall, seems like someone just turned the idle way down. Occasionally this is accompanied by an engine light.

2) Not sure if this is connected, but sometimes the bike sort of "coughs" while riding. If I am say in around 4th gear at a steady RPM the bike will "cough," feels like I pulled in the clutch, and then it will fire again.

3) Again, not sure if this is related to the above, and this has happened a couple of times. I was riding in the rain (heavy Miami rain), hit a puddle and it was like someone turned the lights out on my bike. Everything went black, speedo etc, bike was off. Pulled over, turned the ignition to off, and then back on, boom lights on again, rode home no problem. I was in the garage the other day, tried to fire it up, ran for a second, and then everything black again.

What I've checked:

I volt tested the battery: 12.77V When off, down to 10.43V when starting, Running at around 2K RPM 13.76V

Checked Continuity: at the Stator to the regulator, good continuity, doesn't seem to be grounding out anywhere.

Checked the AC Voltage from Stator: @ idle - 19V at around 2K RPM 56V

Does anyone have any ideas for me? What to check/replace/clean etc? Thanks appreciate it!
~Kurt

 

1-Check for a loose battery cable. Check both ends of the cable. To be clear check the positive at the battery and then check again at the starter. Check the negative at the battery and then check the frame end.
2-Fuel hose in the gas tank has a hole. A pin hole in the flex line within the tank will cause a loss of pressure and in turn fuel starvation. If the tank is less than 3/4 full it becomes more common to observe because the fuel hose is not within the fuel bath.
We have very little to work with since we have no history, no miles and no idea of modifications to motor or if any fuel adders have been used like a power commander.
Thinking number #2 and a loose connection as mentioned or maybe a loose connector someplace under seat, computer connection or ignition switch wires (center panel) has a loose wire...if everything went black i would check the circuit breaker as you may have something causing a bad short over bumps like the wires under the rear fender which sometimes rub against the tire if rear was lowered.
Do you know how to check for codes?

 

May wish to use a test wire with a fuse with a low rating.
Delphi ecm 2000-2003 code read
1. Remove right side saddlebag and side cover if so equipped. Remove protective plug from data link connector.

2. To activate the diagnostic feature, proceed as follows:
a. Create diagnostic test wire or use a female spade clip.
b. Install diagnostic test wire across Terminals 1 and 2 on the data link connector.
c. Turn Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION and wait approximately 10 seconds (4 seconds lamp ON, 6 seconds lamp OFF) for check engine lamp to start flashing.

3. All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes. To retrieve the first digit of the trouble code simply observe the number of times the lamp flashes.
a. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the first digit of the trouble code.

b. The length of time the lamp is illuminated and the length of time in which it is off are each about 0.5 second in duration.

4. The second digit follows:
a. Following the transmission of the first digit, there is a 1.2 second pause in which the lamp is off.
b. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the second digit of the trouble code. Count the number of times the lamp flashes to retrieve the second digit.

5. If more than one trouble code is sent:
a. Following transmission of the second digit of the first code, there is a 3 second pause in which the lamp is off.
b. Once all codes have been sent, the data string is repeated. When you have recorded the same trouble code twice, it is an indication that the transmission has been restarted and that all trouble codes have been retrieved.

IMPORTANT NOTE ..If diagnostic test wire is installed across Pins 1 and 2 on connector in lieu of a Scanalyzer, the ECM is placed in a diagnostic test mode and the engine will start. The test wire must be removed from the data connector and the ignition switch turned OFF or the check engine lamp will continue to flash codes. A historic trouble code resides in the memory of the ECM until the code is cleared by use of the Scanalyzer or a total of 50 trips has elapsed. A “trip” consists of a start and run cycle, the run cycle lasting at least 30 seconds. After the 50 trip retention period, the trouble code is automatically erased from memory (that is, assuming no subsequent faults of the same type are detected in that period). The numbers after the 'historic' or 'current' is the speedo code number, but without the electrical diognostics manual you're peeing into the wind.

1 Current 53 ECM flash error
2 Historic 53 ECM flash error
3 Current 54 ECM EEPROM error
4 Historic 54 ECM EEPROM error
5 Current 63 ECM serial data low
6 Current 63 ECM serial data open/high
7 Current 63 TSSM serial data low
8 Current 63 TSSM serial data open/high
9 Current 61 Loss of TSM/TSSM serial data
10 Current 14 Loss of all ECM serial data (state of health)
10 24 Loss of vehicle speed
10 33 Loss of vehicle inhibit motion
10 43 Loss of power train security status
11 Current 33 System relay contacts open
12 Current 33 System relay coil high/shorted
13 Current 33 System relay coil open/low
14 Current 33 System relay contacts closed
15 Current 99 Incorrect password
16 Current 99 Missing password
17 Current 41 CKP sensor intermittent
18 Current 41 CKP sensor synch error
19 Current 11 TP sensor open/low
20 Current 11 TP sensor high
21 Current 12 MAP sensor open/low
22 Current 12 MAP sensor high
23 Current 14 ET sensor voltage low
24 Current 14 ET sensor open/high
25 Current 15 IAT sensor voltage low
26 Current 15 IAT sensor open/high
27 Current 24 Front ignition coil open/low
28 Current 25 Rear ignition coil open/low
29 Current 24 Front ignition coil high/shorted
30 Current 25 Rear ignition coil high/shorted
31 Current 24 Front cylinder combustion intermittent
32 Current 25 Rear cylinder combustion intermittent
33 Current 23 Front injector open/low
34 Current 32 Rear injector open/low
35 Current 23 Front injector high
36 Current 32 Rear injector high
37 Current 16 Battery voltage low
38 Current 16 Battery voltage high
39 Current 43 VSS sensor low
40 Current 43 VSS sensor high
41 Current N/A (no speedo code for this) Check engine light open/low NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY

 

im, thanks for your reply. I will definitely check out your recommendations. As for the bike, it is basically factory original, no modifications, not lowered. It has approximately 50k miles, no fuel adders etc.

Again thanks, I will let you know if what you've suggested solves the issue.

 

Hey there,

Just wanted to thank you for your advice. I think I have the problem fixed. I found some loose battery connections and the battery clamp was loose. I tightened everything up, and the problem hasn't yet recurred. Hopefully we have this licked. Thanks again.

Cheers,
K

 

Glad to hear.