Help with top end assembly
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 502
From: Orange County
S&S says 50 miles under 2500 rpms w/ no constant rpms. Then an oil change.
Then 500 miles under 3500 rpms w/ no constant rpms. Then an oil change.
Then take it easy until you get to 1000 miles.
I recently completed the build noted in my signature. I did the 50 miles (and oil change) and made it til about 400 miles before I started riding it hard (meaning bouncing off of red line) this week. My buddys riding behind me didn't see any red hot pieces of piston ring or smoke coming out of my exhaust, so I think the rings are seated OK. Gonna change the oil and I'm getting it dyno tuned next week. I believe if it is put together right, what I did is more than adequate for a proper break in.
BTW, a friend got a 106 S&S set up done by T-man and rode it like he stole it right out of the shop and his runs great and doesn't smoke at 20K.
Good luck!
Then 500 miles under 3500 rpms w/ no constant rpms. Then an oil change.
Then take it easy until you get to 1000 miles.
I recently completed the build noted in my signature. I did the 50 miles (and oil change) and made it til about 400 miles before I started riding it hard (meaning bouncing off of red line) this week. My buddys riding behind me didn't see any red hot pieces of piston ring or smoke coming out of my exhaust, so I think the rings are seated OK. Gonna change the oil and I'm getting it dyno tuned next week. I believe if it is put together right, what I did is more than adequate for a proper break in.
BTW, a friend got a 106 S&S set up done by T-man and rode it like he stole it right out of the shop and his runs great and doesn't smoke at 20K.
Good luck!
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach
I'm just saying what they recommend. I don't think they mean that too literally. Just don't ride for 2 hours with the cruise on.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach
I bought my stuff from Dragos Bike Works and on the packing slip it said to use Mobil 1. That's what I have always used anyway. And no, I am not trying to start another oil thread. Just passing on what a reputable builder recommends.
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 502
From: Orange County
Yeah, I guess every builder has his favorite. My build sheet recommends Shell Rotella. I have always used SAE60 in my bike. Should I change to synthetic at this point, or just continue with What I have always used?
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 502
From: Orange County
There's only one oil drain oring per cylinder, right?
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Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 502
From: Orange County
I'm a little confused about the pushrod and valve rocker installation. The manual states to find the base-circle, using the methods explained earlier, however, those steps require the pushrods to be installed. That way you can have the valves open and close and feel the compression stroke.
So, how can you be sure you are on true-TDC without the valves installed?
Since I used the quickie pushrods before, do I need to screw-in the pushrods and go through the whole re-adjustment procedure?
Thanks!
So, how can you be sure you are on true-TDC without the valves installed?
Since I used the quickie pushrods before, do I need to screw-in the pushrods and go through the whole re-adjustment procedure?
Thanks!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
Likes: 19,810
From: Centennial, CO
I'm a little confused about the pushrod and valve rocker installation. The manual states to find the base-circle, using the methods explained earlier, however, those steps require the pushrods to be installed. That way you can have the valves open and close and feel the compression stroke.
So, how can you be sure you are on true-TDC without the valves installed?
Since I used the quickie pushrods before, do I need to screw-in the pushrods and go through the whole re-adjustment procedure?
Thanks!
So, how can you be sure you are on true-TDC without the valves installed?
Since I used the quickie pushrods before, do I need to screw-in the pushrods and go through the whole re-adjustment procedure?
Thanks!
Another way is to rotate the engine by hand watching the lifters. As each cylinder reaches TDC on compression stroke, the lifters will be on the lowest part of the cam and stop moving briefly. You can see it or stick your fingers in the lifter holes and feel it.
Use whatever oil your builder recommends for break-in. then go with what you usually use.