Help with top end assembly
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6,673
Likes: 502
From: Orange County
On to the pushrod adjustment,
I adjusted according to the HD instruction sheet, 2-1/2 turns from zero lash. Lifters sill not bleeding down after an hour. Maybe something is wrong?
My puahroids should be 32TPI, I measured with calipers, about 8 threads per 1/4 inch; some sources show 3.8 turns and the HD sheet shows 2- 1/2.
???
I adjusted according to the HD instruction sheet, 2-1/2 turns from zero lash. Lifters sill not bleeding down after an hour. Maybe something is wrong?
My puahroids should be 32TPI, I measured with calipers, about 8 threads per 1/4 inch; some sources show 3.8 turns and the HD sheet shows 2- 1/2.
???
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
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From: Centennial, CO
Most lifter preloads I've seen, including mine (H-D) require about .100, maybe a bit more, which would be 3.2 turns on your pushrods. I've seen in here that some lifters take a while to bleed down.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Orange County
I did make two marks on the cam chest plate - one where the front piston is at TDC and another for rear piston. I checked these last night and they seem pretty accurate.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
TFor sure some do. That's why I like tho go the other way and start with a dry lifter it's easier to completely compress and the reverse the adjustment. 32 tpi should be 031" for one full revolution. So from a dry lifter I adjust till there is no lash but still able to spin the pushrod and back off the adjustment 2 full revolutions.. This will give you approx. .140" preload. I disassemble the lifter and clean it to get it to completely collapse..when reassembling the lifter I give everything a thin coat of oil. It takes all the guess work out of "did all the oil get squeezed out so I can set my preload" after all that I crank the motor with the plugs out atleast twice for 15 seconds ( give a couple minutes in between cranks) each time make sure there is oil at the lifters.... Then proceed to start up..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 9, 2015 at 01:31 PM.
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6,673
Likes: 502
From: Orange County
TFor sure some do. That's why I like tho go the other way and start with a dry lifter it's easier to completely compress and the reverse the adjustment. 32 tpi should be 031" for one full revolution. So from a dry lifter I adjust till there is no lash but still able to spin the pushrod and back off the adjustment 2 full revolutions.. This will give you approx. .140" preload. I disassemble the lifter and clean it to get it to completely collapse..when reassembling the lifter I give everything a thin coat of oil. It takes all the guess work out of "did all the oil get squeezed out so I can set my preload" after all that I crank the motor with the plugs out atleast twice for 15 seconds ( give a couple minutes in between cranks) each time make sure there is oil at the lifters.... Then proceed to start up..
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Orange County
Well, just my Effing luck - oil weeping from the base of each cylinder. Geez. I checked and double checked that oring.
Started it up and saw the front cylinder exhaust start to smoke a little, but it went away. Rode the bike nice and easy, seemed fine. No strange noises or anything weird.
Time buy a new bike. : (
I don't want to take this thing apart again, son of a bitch!
Started it up and saw the front cylinder exhaust start to smoke a little, but it went away. Rode the bike nice and easy, seemed fine. No strange noises or anything weird.
Time buy a new bike. : (
I don't want to take this thing apart again, son of a bitch!
Last edited by Road Star; May 9, 2015 at 10:48 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
Sorry to hear about your leak. Definitely a bummer. Don't give in just yet. Are both jugs leaking and are the leaks inline with the stud that is closest to the dowel and o-ring at the head gasket? Did they leak prior to the rebuild? I never built a twin cam before and I can understand the use of the o-ring when using the stock head gasket. However I saw the embossed area in the cometic head gasket around the dowel which looked like a it fit very nicely around the dowel. Usually a raised area like that is usually the crush point to make the proper seal. I wouldn't think there would be the necessity for both with the cometic head gaskets. I would PM johnjz, he has a shop in jersey and has a wealth of knowledge and ask him directly about the use of both with the cometic kit.