Kompressor heads
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
Anyway, this isn't the correct topic forum for a b**** session about dealerships. My questions are:
1. Are my cam choices good for this current set up and will allow room for improvement once I have the opportunity to send these heads out to get worked by one of the many reputable CNC shops on this forum? I'm open to suggestions of course, but do we really need another cam thread? 😄
2. Can I even rework these heads? They're already decked 60 thou
3.most importantly, what damage, if any, could have been done by the stock push rods? Can I even ride my bike until I get it to the dealer for them to put the correct push rods in?
1. Are my cam choices good for this current set up and will allow room for improvement once I have the opportunity to send these heads out to get worked by one of the many reputable CNC shops on this forum? I'm open to suggestions of course, but do we really need another cam thread? 😄
2. Can I even rework these heads? They're already decked 60 thou
3.most importantly, what damage, if any, could have been done by the stock push rods? Can I even ride my bike until I get it to the dealer for them to put the correct push rods in?
The Kompressor heads have been milled .060" which means chamber volume is approximately 76cc. As advertised the Kompressor heads should increase static compression to 10.5 with OEM pistons. According to my calculator, a 76cc chamber volume, stock head gasket and and average deck height of -.006" would produce static CR of about 10.6. So, not having the opportunity to measure and verify chamber volume, I would pull a compression test with the OEM cams and see what you get with those heads. It should be well over 200psi; too high for a street build.
Absent confirmation of actual CCP, I would err to the conservative side and consider a different set of cam options with later intake valve close events than the Fueling 574 which would put CCP right about 200psi which would be acceptable for some but, if I was doing the work I would steer you to cams with later intake close events that would drop CCP to the high 190s. Cams like the Andrews 32, TMan 577 or the Redshift 577; the SE259 would work also. Your problem is that many cams with later intake close events have lifts that exceed the .585" max lift of the heads. This should not start a cam thread because with the 76cc chambers, cam choices are very limited.
As far a working the Kompressor heads in the future, you are stuck with the 76cc chamber volume which limits cam choices. IMHO, you would have been better off with OEM heads replacing your OEM heads which would open up cam choices to many more options both now and in the future. Run the Kompressor heads and shop around for a set of take off heads for future upgrades. JMHO.
I don't believe any damage was done by running the stock pushrods but certainly damage could be done if you floated a valve. There is approximately .100" of travel remaining in a lifter with stock pushrods that set lifter preload at the center of the .200" of total travel in a lifter. Of course that will vary depending on factory tolerances of the pushrod and the stack up height of the valve train. Running the stock pushrods at .160" preload leaves .040" of travel in the lifter so you can see the potential for damage; particularly with the now closer piston to valve clearance resulting from heads that have been decked .060". So, yeah, adjustable pushrods are necessary but you should be OK if you take it easy on the motor until you get the adjustables installed.
Last I checked, the book rate for a cam change was 4 hours, so I don't know if you are getting a discount on labor; worth checking into. Even with the dealers poor record of performance, I think your choices are letting them install the cams and pushrods or giving you some sort of store credit for parts or merchandise if you do the work yourself. I would also suggest that you have them upgrade the inner cam bearings to PN 24018-10. Are they installing the 18404-08 pushrods?
Good luck!
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 18
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From: Boston, MA
Short answer to your cam question is no, your cam choices are not good; the long answer follows.
The Kompressor heads have been milled .060" which means chamber volume is approximately 76cc. As advertised the Kompressor heads should increase static compression to 10.5 with OEM pistons. According to my calculator, a 76cc chamber volume, stock head gasket and and average deck height of -.006" would produce static CR of about 10.6. So, not having the opportunity to measure and verify chamber volume, I would pull a compression test with the OEM cams and see what you get with those heads. It should be well over 200psi; too high for a street build.
Absent confirmation of actual CCP, I would err to the conservative side and consider a different set of cam options with later intake valve close events than the Fueling 574 which would put CCP right about 200psi which would be acceptable for some but, if I was doing the work I would steer you to cams with later intake close events that would drop CCP to the high 190s. Cams like the Andrews 32, TMan 577 or the Redshift 577; the SE259 would work also. Your problem is that many cams with later intake close events have lifts that exceed the .585" max lift of the heads. This should not start a cam thread because with the 76cc chambers, cam choices are very limited.
As far a working the Kompressor heads in the future, you are stuck with the 76cc chamber volume which limits cam choices. IMHO, you would have been better off with OEM heads replacing your OEM heads which would open up cam choices to many more options both now and in the future. Run the Kompressor heads and shop around for a set of take off heads for future upgrades. JMHO.
I don't believe any damage was done by running the stock pushrods but certainly damage could be done if you floated a valve. There is approximately .100" of travel remaining in a lifter with stock pushrods that set lifter preload at the center of the .200" of total travel in a lifter. Of course that will vary depending on factory tolerances of the pushrod and the stack up height of the valve train. Running the stock pushrods at .160" preload leaves .040" of travel in the lifter so you can see the potential for damage; particularly with the now closer piston to valve clearance resulting from heads that have been decked .060". So, yeah, adjustable pushrods are necessary but you should be OK if you take it easy on the motor until you get the adjustables installed.
Last I checked, the book rate for a cam change was 4 hours, so I don't know if you are getting a discount on labor; worth checking into. Even with the dealers poor record of performance, I think your choices are letting them install the cams and pushrods or giving you some sort of store credit for parts or merchandise if you do the work yourself. I would also suggest that you have them upgrade the inner cam bearings to PN 24018-10. Are they installing the 18404-08 pushrods?
Good luck!
The Kompressor heads have been milled .060" which means chamber volume is approximately 76cc. As advertised the Kompressor heads should increase static compression to 10.5 with OEM pistons. According to my calculator, a 76cc chamber volume, stock head gasket and and average deck height of -.006" would produce static CR of about 10.6. So, not having the opportunity to measure and verify chamber volume, I would pull a compression test with the OEM cams and see what you get with those heads. It should be well over 200psi; too high for a street build.
Absent confirmation of actual CCP, I would err to the conservative side and consider a different set of cam options with later intake valve close events than the Fueling 574 which would put CCP right about 200psi which would be acceptable for some but, if I was doing the work I would steer you to cams with later intake close events that would drop CCP to the high 190s. Cams like the Andrews 32, TMan 577 or the Redshift 577; the SE259 would work also. Your problem is that many cams with later intake close events have lifts that exceed the .585" max lift of the heads. This should not start a cam thread because with the 76cc chambers, cam choices are very limited.
As far a working the Kompressor heads in the future, you are stuck with the 76cc chamber volume which limits cam choices. IMHO, you would have been better off with OEM heads replacing your OEM heads which would open up cam choices to many more options both now and in the future. Run the Kompressor heads and shop around for a set of take off heads for future upgrades. JMHO.
I don't believe any damage was done by running the stock pushrods but certainly damage could be done if you floated a valve. There is approximately .100" of travel remaining in a lifter with stock pushrods that set lifter preload at the center of the .200" of total travel in a lifter. Of course that will vary depending on factory tolerances of the pushrod and the stack up height of the valve train. Running the stock pushrods at .160" preload leaves .040" of travel in the lifter so you can see the potential for damage; particularly with the now closer piston to valve clearance resulting from heads that have been decked .060". So, yeah, adjustable pushrods are necessary but you should be OK if you take it easy on the motor until you get the adjustables installed.
Last I checked, the book rate for a cam change was 4 hours, so I don't know if you are getting a discount on labor; worth checking into. Even with the dealers poor record of performance, I think your choices are letting them install the cams and pushrods or giving you some sort of store credit for parts or merchandise if you do the work yourself. I would also suggest that you have them upgrade the inner cam bearings to PN 24018-10. Are they installing the 18404-08 pushrods?
Good luck!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
I was going to use which ever cam manufacturer's push rods. So S&S cams with their push rods, SE cams and push rods, etc. unless it doesn't matter who makes them. as for them doing the work, I'll talk them down on the labor or just do it myself if they don't budge. Either way, they've lost business for life
BTW, don't make a decision to run away from the Harley brand because you are dealing with an incompetent dealer; run away from the dealer but not the brand.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 420
Likes: 5
From: Kingsport, TN
All good stuff, as djl points out, assuming you avoid "quickies". Plan to clearance pushrod covers if using 7/16" dia. pushrods, regardless of brand, unless they are tapered. Otherwise, prepare for rubbing noises, especially on the front exhaust, IME.
Last edited by dynawg1; May 13, 2015 at 07:45 PM.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
So no go on feuling. What about the S&S? Those were suggested by an indie shop with this current setup. Also, when I shut the bob off after a ride yesterday, there was a screech and a puff of smoke. Couldn't tell where it came from, looked like it was from the front O2 sensor area. I started it back up and it sounded fine, but when I rode it seemed a little sluggish. Maybe I'm just being paranoid.
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