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What Cams do I have?

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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 09:42 AM
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BKBIGGZ's Avatar
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Default What Cams do I have?

I'm thinking about doing some work to increase the go fast in my 96 motor, but I'm not really sure where to start. My bike had gear drive cams put in by the 1st owner who I finally tracked down only to hear "I don't remember exactly what cams I had installed". On top of that, the place that he had the work done at isn't local and he couldn't really remember the name of the shop either . Am I the only one who keeps all paperwork/receipts for my vehicles and provides them to the next owner or dealer when I sell/trade in?

My question is, are there any manufacturer markings on cams to identify the make/model so I know what I'm working with once I have her torn down?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 10:59 AM
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I know woods cams stamps the inner end off the cam. Does require complete removal to check.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 11:00 AM
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My S&S .510 cams have "S&S 510G" engraved on the outer end of them. I could see it when I pulled my cam cover. But I don't know about other cam makers.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 11:42 AM
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Thanks guys, I was hoping so.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 12:11 PM
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I hate to say it but if the previous owner doesn't even know what cams he put in the bike, I'd be really concerned about the quality of work done on it. If the cams are the only thing done, I'd be inside that cam chest yesterday verifying the work was done correctly. It's a stupid easy thing to do a cam replacement if you have the right tools but it's also stupid easy to do it wrong if he decided to beat the bearings into the cam plate or onto the cams. Someone who can't even remember what cams he installed is more likely to beat on it vs using proper tools or go with the cheapest shop possible to do the install for him which is sketchy in and of itself.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 12:12 PM
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Also, if he went gear drive without checking the crank runout, you could be in for a nightmare if the runout is out of spec.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 12:29 PM
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Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind. I know he didn't do the work himself and I'm almost positive he didn't cut corners or go cheap on the motor work based on the way it performs and how the rest of the bike is put together. I've had it for about a year and a half now and it runs really strong with absolutely no mechanical issues other than needing a new starter which was covered under warranty. I've put over 10k miles on it myself and it's still runs faster than my buddy's '14 street glide all the way through the low and mid range.

I'm just looking for a bit more. My first bike was a '12 VROD Muscle and I'm still chasing that first hit.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BKBIGGZ
Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind. I know he didn't do the work himself and I'm almost positive he didn't cut corners or go cheap on the motor work based on the way it performs and how the rest of the bike is put together. I've had it for about a year and a half now and it runs really strong with absolutely no mechanical issues other than needing a new starter which was covered under warranty. I've put over 10k miles on it myself and it's still runs faster than my buddy's '14 street glide all the way through the low and mid range.

I'm just looking for a bit more. My first bike was a '12 VROD Muscle and I'm still chasing that first hit.
Coming from a V-ROD and then riding onto a FLHRCI you're not gonna get that "first hit" but you will have a really good time hitting a lot of foul *****!
 
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