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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Haha.....dammit....how did you guys go from me wanting 100 HP and 110 TQ to go get a 124"?!
Honestly, I feel like if the 107" in my RK ever goes to **** on me, I'll stuff a 124 in that but I'd like to keep the Road Glide extremely dependable and dammit, 100/110 area.
Now don't get me wrong........I WANT a 124 in that bike, but most importantly I want it do be a good runner and not married to the builder if that makes any sense as I'm no mechanic and put on 10-15,000 miles a year.
Or should I just get the 124"
S&S Cycle T124LC (585 cams / dished pistons) will give you 10.2:1 compression ratio.
The higher the compression and more radical the cams are, the lower the mileage before it needs work no matter how big (CI) the engine is.
Haha.....dammit....how did you guys go from me wanting 100 HP and 110 TQ to go get a 124"?!
Well, it's like this! Those of us with that performance level know we cheaped out and we wouldn't want you to do the same, then bust us for not telling ya to go the whole hog!
What are the numbers for a 124" Hot Set Up Kit using 640 cams @ 10.8:1? No head porting, using supplied gaskets.
With their 66mm Throttle Hog and a good pipe along with the 1.650" exhaust valve they now use, we are seeing/hearing 140 square.
At/near 150/150 if headwork/compression is introduced.
Scott
Cheaper to drop in a crate 124" w/ 585 cams instead of a bunch of small upgrades over a long period of time.
I did the 107" in stages and eventually ended up with the 124" and 585 cams. Wish I went straight to the 124" from the start. More power than I even need and very reliable. Kirby built mine and I couldnt be happier with the results!
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