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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I was asking around about changing my valve seals without removing my heads and everybody was telling me that it was almost impossible. So I started looking around and came upon this guy that built a tool that does just that removes the valve seals without removing the heads. I thought that I would post it here so others could benefit from this tool. This site goes to his you tube video.
I was asking around about changing my valve seals without removing my heads and everybody was telling me that it was almost impossible. So I started looking around and came upon this guy that built a tool that does just that removes the valve seals without removing the heads. I thought that I would post it here so others could benefit from this tool. This site goes to his you tube video.
Agree with Kirby. Addtionally, this is not an invention. Goodson has had a similar tool for years and there is also the "caveman" method.
Why would you ever want to do this?? Anytime seals need attention. Its most likly time to look at valves & seats.
My problem isn't that the valves are a problem, My bike set for a few years and the seals have dried up thats why I thought that people that have had the same problem could fixt it this way.
Agree with Kirby. Addtionally, this is not an invention. Goodson has had a similar tool for years and there is also the "caveman" method.
So where where you at when I was asking around about removing the seals without removing the heads.? And there where a few guys asking the same question as I was so I thought this would help others.
So where where you at when I was asking around about removing the seals without removing the heads.? And there where a few guys asking the same question as I was so I thought this would help others.
No need to get pissy. I was right here. I went back and reviewed all you previous posts and this most recent was the first where you inquired about how to R/R guide seals with the cylinder heads in place. If I am wrong about that, post your first thread on this forum where you were making inquiries on this issue. Your first threads about "oil burning" were nearly a year ago and were in the Oil and Oil Related Topics section of the forum. Furthermore, in none of those threads did you inquire about how to R/R guide seals without removing the heads.
I know you did a compression test, which can be misleading depending on how the test was done, accuracy of the gauge, etc. but if you have not done a leak down test, you have missed a step in the process of evaluating the condition of the top end.
I have posted this same information on more than one occasion on this forum and, if you had done a search, you might have found those posts. I am not saying that guide seals do not need to be replaced. If you think replacing guide seals is the answer to your problem after the motor has not been run much in 12 years, by all means, have at it. However, I think you would be better served to pull the heads and take a look and maybe have the heads cleaned up, new multi angle valve job, new guide seals, etc. You mentioned in you previous oil burning threads that the motor consumed 4 quarts of oil in, what, 3500 miles? I would say that would be enough information to guide you toward freshening up the top end.
Thanks for you feed back everything that I have done points to the valve seals the compression test with the leak down also showed good. If after I replace the seals and still have the problem then i will take it down and do what needs to be done.
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