Engine Mechanical Topics Discussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.

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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 06:03 PM
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Default Need advice quick

Put my 13 CVO King bike in the shop for a few upgrades. Installed vance and hines power dual head pipe, 4'' rinehart mufflers, SE Agitator air cleaner, SE Tuner and a cam from a local builder. Bike dyno'd by local dealer and did some research on the guy dynoing and is said to be very good for this area. Bike dynoed at 118lbs torque and 102 HP. Max TQ was at 3750 with a nice curve and slowly tapers to 85lbs at 6k rpm. Max HP at 5500 rpm. My questions are many as this isn't very impressive numbers to me for current setup. (was hoping for more)

1. I have looked at the cyclerama cam 575 and seems to be good but torque seems to drop early. Any other cam suggestions? Or should I try the 575?

2. Talked to builder about decking the heads to raise compression,clean up ports on heads,and change springs? Is this a good solution on a shoe string budget instead of changing pistons and such? Will the gains be worth the added cost? with the heads he suggested if we go this route to change the cam to a T-man 66? adding a 58mm throttle body and bigger injectors?

At this point I am looking for either better cam choices that are proven in a 110"" or your thoughts on clipping the heads and other mods I talked about...
 

Last edited by Litterbox; Dec 14, 2015 at 09:44 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 08:06 PM
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JMHO but have the heads ported, replace the cams, replace the throttle body; exhaust setup is not bad. Not going to start the never ending suggestions of what cams, etc.; I will leave that for the builder/porter and you to sort out.

Find a competent builder/porter, two sponsor this forum; Scott/Hillside Cycles and Kirby/Veetwin Performance. Giv'em a call and chat'em up; if one gives you that warm and fuzzy, work out a plan. "shoe string" budget has different meanings to different folks but when it comes to making our beloved vtwin motors sing, if you want to play, gotta pay; no free lunches.

Sounds like you have already pissed away some coin on an unknown. That is why it is important to work with someone like one of the two mentioned; they can predict the results you will get; no surprises.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 08:18 PM
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I appreciate the feed back. So far nothing pissed away on parts, all the parts I had and gave the shop as thats what I wanted with the exception of the cam that I did not pay for just donated the bike to try it in. granted I paid for the parts at 1 time. So far what I bought from dealer is tuner, labor and dyno time. Future cam swap labor, and dyno time is covered. Of course further work with heads and parts WILL be charged. That's where I need some solid advice from you guys. Thanks any and all advice appreciated!
 
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 08:22 PM
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Just not sure clipping the heads will have the same result as high dome pistons??? Builder says it's not proven to him they elect boring jugs and higher compression pistons?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 09:37 PM
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Can you post What your cam specs are? And are the heads stock?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 08:03 AM
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Not sure on the cam specs which I can change out with a better one if we do head work ..Yes heads are stock as of now.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Litterbox
Just not sure clipping the heads will have the same result as high dome pistons??? Builder says it's not proven to him they elect boring jugs and higher compression pistons?
Don't disagree on "not sure clipping the heads will have the same result as high dome pistons"; end result is more compression and you can get there either way. However, I was not referring to "clipping the heads"; I was suggesting that the heads be ported and setup for the selected cam. That might require clipping the heads; might not. Riding style drives cam selection, cam selection drives everything else including whether or not domed or flat top pistons work best for the final configuration.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 01:59 PM
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Well I'm a little surprised nobody has mentioned to you that your dyno numbers are actually very good for a 110 with stock heads. Where the torque comes on where it falls off the cam is doing it's job. So if you just want more out of it you're going to have to take the next step, head work and throttlebody. Choose someone who knows what they're doing add another 5 to 10 foot pounds and more hp. Or leave it as a good performing cam only 110.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 05:10 PM
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Here is dyno sheet thinking maybe mufflers are hurting me. That's what a few have said. Going to have back on the dyno this week swapping out the rineharts for stock muffler's that have Fullsach 2.25'' baffles. Had these collecting dust. Will update afterwards.
 
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Last edited by Litterbox; Dec 13, 2015 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 05:57 PM
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Litterbox, Dude you are totally exaggerating the dip......... from 2k on up you have a real nice curve hitting hard as hell at 3k. Most dips in the curve happen between 2200 and 3k. your hitting it real good. I would leave well enough alone. You ain't gonna feel it anyways.....
 
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