Budget Minded 103 build
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Near Show Low, AZ
Budget Minded 103 build
So I want to upgrade my 96 to a 103 on a tight budget. I will be doing the wrench bending and will look to someone else for the tune. I purchased a set of low mile take off 103 jugs and they came with pistons and rings. I have a set of S&S adjustable pushrods, Woods 222 cams that will be going in. I have the tool to remove and install the inner cam bearings. Any other tips, tricks, setup info would be greatly appreciated. The bike this is in is a 2007 Dyna.
Questions I have would be should I use a new set of piston rings, what thickness of head gasket should I use, due to not having compression releases? Also would it be advisable to go with the 103 compensator and heavier clutch spring.
Questions I have would be should I use a new set of piston rings, what thickness of head gasket should I use, due to not having compression releases? Also would it be advisable to go with the 103 compensator and heavier clutch spring.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
First thing I would do would be to have a qualified machine shop bolt the cylinder up in torque plates and check the piston to cylinder fitment to be sure that fitment is in spec. If so, a quick hone pass to break the cylinder wall glaze and a new set of rings is a must. If not, bore to 98". A .030" MLS head gasket would be a good idea.
If your heads don't have compression releases and you plan on running the 222 cams which have a 34* intake close, you might want to reconsider your cam selection for a cam set with a 38*-40* intake close; say Andrews 57, S&S570 come to mind. Or, have the heads fitted for compression releases.
Heavier clutch spring might hold. If you are not having compensator issues, why replace? If you are going to replace, take a look at the aftermarket, like Baker or if sticking with OEM, replace with the most recent upgrade; I believe there have been 3 or 4; haven't kept up.
If your heads don't have compression releases and you plan on running the 222 cams which have a 34* intake close, you might want to reconsider your cam selection for a cam set with a 38*-40* intake close; say Andrews 57, S&S570 come to mind. Or, have the heads fitted for compression releases.
Heavier clutch spring might hold. If you are not having compensator issues, why replace? If you are going to replace, take a look at the aftermarket, like Baker or if sticking with OEM, replace with the most recent upgrade; I believe there have been 3 or 4; haven't kept up.
Last edited by djl; Feb 22, 2016 at 09:44 AM.
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From: Near Show Low, AZ
Thanks for the input, I currently have a new set of 222 cams, so no going back on the cams. No I'm not having compensator issue, just saw that others were having issues when going to bigger cubes, so if it's not a concern I won't worry about it at this juncture. The cylinders are already at 103, I'm not reusing the 96 jugs so boring to 98 inch is out, they will go on the shelf for back ups.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
Thanks for the input, I currently have a new set of 222 cams, so no going back on the cams. No I'm not having compensator issue, just saw that others were having issues when going to bigger cubes, so if it's not a concern I won't worry about it at this juncture. The cylinders are already at 103, I'm not reusing the 96 jugs so boring to 98 inch is out, they will go on the shelf for back ups.
With a .030" head gasket, CCP is going to be near 200psi;you might consider having compression releases fitted to help extend battery and starter life. You should also check deck height while you have the chance for future reference. A .040" head gasket will drop CCP to a bit above 190psi; still compression release territory for me but, again, your call.
First thing I would do would be to have a qualified machine shop bolt the cylinder up in torque plates and check the piston to cylinder fitment to be sure that fitment is in spec. If so, a quick hone pass to break the cylinder wall glaze and a new set of rings is a must. If not, bore to 98". A .030" MLS head gasket would be a good idea.
If your heads don't have compression releases and you plan on running the 222 cams which have a 34* intake close, you might want to reconsider your cam selection for a cam set with a 38*-40* intake close; say Andrews 57, S&S570 come to mind. Or, have the heads fitted for compression releases.
Heavier clutch spring might hold. If you are not having compensator issues, why replace? If you are going to replace, take a look at the aftermarket, like Baker or if sticking with OEM, replace with the most recent upgrade; I believe there have been 3 or 4; haven't kept up.
If your heads don't have compression releases and you plan on running the 222 cams which have a 34* intake close, you might want to reconsider your cam selection for a cam set with a 38*-40* intake close; say Andrews 57, S&S570 come to mind. Or, have the heads fitted for compression releases.
Heavier clutch spring might hold. If you are not having compensator issues, why replace? If you are going to replace, take a look at the aftermarket, like Baker or if sticking with OEM, replace with the most recent upgrade; I believe there have been 3 or 4; haven't kept up.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Near Show Low, AZ
Thanks, again, now I understand where your going with your previous statement. Man you just gave more things to think about, not less. LMAO. So off to the machinist I will go, and see what it's going to run to get this thing put to done right and tight.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Australia
how many miles on the jugs, pistons & barrels?
put the rings in barrels and check what the ring gap is,
IMO if they low mileage, all parts from same engine, ring gap good, hone marks all good in barrels(no lines) then I would give them a sand/stone, clean and assemble
there plenty of young guys building motors from good quality second hand parts and they going fine
they not a space shuttle
get comp releases
put the rings in barrels and check what the ring gap is,
IMO if they low mileage, all parts from same engine, ring gap good, hone marks all good in barrels(no lines) then I would give them a sand/stone, clean and assemble
there plenty of young guys building motors from good quality second hand parts and they going fine
they not a space shuttle
get comp releases
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From: Near Show Low, AZ
Oh, by the way, what are suggestions on a top end gasket kit, cometic, James, hd?
Yes, heavy cross Hatch in the cylinders, my understanding from Trask was that they were new take offs or low mile. I wish I had my pictures I would post them. I will try to post them later if that would help.
Yes, heavy cross Hatch in the cylinders, my understanding from Trask was that they were new take offs or low mile. I wish I had my pictures I would post them. I will try to post them later if that would help.
Last edited by showlowzook; Feb 22, 2016 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Additional
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From: deland,florida
how many miles on the jugs, pistons & barrels?
put the rings in barrels and check what the ring gap is,
IMO if they low mileage, all parts from same engine, ring gap good, hone marks all good in barrels(no lines) then I would give them a sand/stone, clean and assemble
there plenty of young guys building motors from good quality second hand parts and they going fine
they not a space shuttle
get comp releases
put the rings in barrels and check what the ring gap is,
IMO if they low mileage, all parts from same engine, ring gap good, hone marks all good in barrels(no lines) then I would give them a sand/stone, clean and assemble
there plenty of young guys building motors from good quality second hand parts and they going fine
they not a space shuttle
get comp releases
What would checking the ring gap with the old rings tell? If the cylinders are. 002 out of round (which would be ALOT),it wouldnt show by the ring gap,plus i would never reccomend putting a motor together with used rings.djl has the right idea,if the 103" jugs are not within spec after a light hone to break glaze,bore the 96" jugs to the 103" pistons
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 27
From: Australia
that motor will work fine if its from low mileage parts (all from same motor),
when you see these motors apart with 30,40,50,000 miles on them and they are still brand new, just gaskets need a freshen up in a lot of cases
when you see these motors apart with 30,40,50,000 miles on them and they are still brand new, just gaskets need a freshen up in a lot of cases