Cam tensioners - I think they don't need replacing yet
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,949
Likes: 53
From: NoNV
If you have it that far apart already ... just do it now ... save yourself the possible (bigger) headaches later.
IF - it were me ... I'd do the hydraulic conversion ... Just Saying ..........
IF - it were me ... I'd do the hydraulic conversion ... Just Saying ..........
Last edited by tjhog; May 16, 2016 at 03:20 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
Likes: 2,603
From: san antonio
I did not say that pushrods did not need to be removed; ready my post and the OPs quote. The OP referred to "replacing the pushrods OR removing the rocker arms". I took that to mean the OEM pushrods would have to be cut and replaced OR the rocker arms would have to be removed to pull the pushrods. While it is true that cutting and replacing the pushrods is an option, loosening the rocker supports enough to move the arms to the side, the pushrods can be pulled from the top; not a major operation. The magnet holders will eliminate the need to remove the lifters/lifter blocks. So replacing the tensioners without removing cams from the cam plate is doable and not that tough a project.............
No need for the hydraulic upgrade; the early OEM cam plate is more than adequate for the job.
Last edited by djl; May 16, 2016 at 04:24 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 119
Likes: 7
From: So Oregon
You saw a guy do the job with the tool in the video, so yes, someone has done this job using the tool. There is an email address in the video; holescreek@yahoo.com, I think. Email and inquire. NomadMax, a forum member used this tool to change his tensioners a couple of months back.
I did not say that pushrods did not need to be removed; ready my post and the OPs quote. The OP referred to "replacing the pushrods OR removing the rocker arms". I took that to mean the OEM pushrods would have to be cut and replaced OR the rocker arms would have to be removed to pull the pushrods. While it is true that cutting and replacing the pushrods is an option, loosening the rocker supports enough to move the arms to the side, the pushrods can be pulled from the top; not a major operation. The magnet holders will eliminate the need to remove the lifters/lifter blocks. So replacing the tensioners without removing cams from the cam plate is doable and not that tough a project.............
No need for the hydraulic upgrade; the early OEM cam plate is more than adequate for the job.
I did not say that pushrods did not need to be removed; ready my post and the OPs quote. The OP referred to "replacing the pushrods OR removing the rocker arms". I took that to mean the OEM pushrods would have to be cut and replaced OR the rocker arms would have to be removed to pull the pushrods. While it is true that cutting and replacing the pushrods is an option, loosening the rocker supports enough to move the arms to the side, the pushrods can be pulled from the top; not a major operation. The magnet holders will eliminate the need to remove the lifters/lifter blocks. So replacing the tensioners without removing cams from the cam plate is doable and not that tough a project.............
No need for the hydraulic upgrade; the early OEM cam plate is more than adequate for the job.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
I don't cut pushrods and I re-use rocker cover gaskets. I do replace the cam cover gasket, oil bypass spring with a Baisley LMR-2 and the oil pump O rings. If requested, (and I recommend it) I replace the breathers in the rocker box with the newer style. Of course I use Cyco replacement shoes.
It's not that big a job and going to the hydraulic conversion doesn't relieve you of having to check the rear tensioner as the link chain is retained on the back side of the came plate. That's a dirty little secret the dealer won't tell you or even worse; that they don't know.
With all my stuff laid out its a few hours and not much money. In the end you have more durable shoes that won't crack and break that are as good as anything else that isn't gear drive.
I've really done nothing more than posting a link or two to the tool in relevant threads because I didn't want to be a shill. But it does exactly what you see, first time every time. If it interests you, have a look at the link and contact him. My involvement was to tell my friend who is a machinist "I want that thing off there without taking those cams out". Like a great machinist and friend he made a tool for it
Last edited by Campy Roadie; May 16, 2016 at 07:22 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
They do. See my post above.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,255
Likes: 112
From: Florida
That's about what my 02 Fatboy looks like with same mileage. My buddy got 60,000 out of his 02 Heritage before changing and they were still a little more than half worn. Not to worried about inner bearings as 2002 was the last year with Timkin bearings. I'll check mine again at 35,000 miles. Btw, I've only heard heavily worn tensioners exploding. Please show examples if you know otherwise. Tia
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
Likes: 2,603
From: san antonio
That's about what my 02 Fatboy looks like with same mileage. My buddy got 60,000 out of his 02 Heritage before changing and they were still a little more than half worn. Not to worried about inner bearings as 2002 was the last year with Timkin bearings. I'll check mine again at 35,000 miles. Btw, I've only heard heavily worn tensioners exploding. Please show examples if you know otherwise. Tia
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,255
Likes: 112
From: Florida
Timken are the crank bearings and have nothing to do with inner cam bearings. Check out the two photos; one with about 12K miles and one with about 24K miles. I am sure you can find and post photos of tensioners that look good with more miles as there are thousands of early models running around without tensioner issues. But who wants to be the one out of ten that has to rebuild a motor because a tensioner comes apart?? **** happens, just hope it doesn't happen to you or, replace the shitty tensioners and make sure it doesn't. Why do you think the MoCo changed to hydraulic pressure instead of the heavy spring pressure and to a different material that was not affected by heat and exposure to oil???
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
Likes: 2,603
From: san antonio
My bad on Timkin bearings.....but generally, bearing issues didn't really start showing up until 2003 (and later) models were in the marketplace. As for exploding tensioners......I've talked to many owners of 2000-2006 twin cams and it seems the tensioners either wear out early around 12,000 miles, or they last for 40,000-60,000 miles. Me thinks it depends the dies used to cut the chain. If the dies are dull the chain will have sharp burrs that quickly eat up plastic tensioners. IMO, its a great idea to inspect them at least every 10,000 miles. JMHO
The potential problem can be eliminated in a couple of hours for less than $100? Easy fix, particularly if one is in the cam chest anyway as the OP is; half way there. Or maybe some prefer to "live on the edge" and take their chances when a $5000 repair could be the result of the gamble. Just doesn't make sense to me.....