If you have it that far apart already ... just do it now ... save yourself the possible (bigger) headaches later.

IF - it were me ... I'd do the hydraulic conversion ... Just Saying ..........

 

I egret with you on that. But all he has is the cam cover off. That really isn't that far into it. Now if they make a tool to replace the inner one. That will be bad ***

 

You saw a guy do the job with the tool in the video, so yes, someone has done this job using the tool. There is an email address in the video; holescreek@yahoo.com, I think. Email and inquire. NomadMax, a forum member used this tool to change his tensioners a couple of months back.

I did not say that pushrods did not need to be removed; ready my post and the OPs quote. The OP referred to "replacing the pushrods OR removing the rocker arms". I took that to mean the OEM pushrods would have to be cut and replaced OR the rocker arms would have to be removed to pull the pushrods. While it is true that cutting and replacing the pushrods is an option, loosening the rocker supports enough to move the arms to the side, the pushrods can be pulled from the top; not a major operation. The magnet holders will eliminate the need to remove the lifters/lifter blocks. So replacing the tensioners without removing cams from the cam plate is doable and not that tough a project.............

No need for the hydraulic upgrade; the early OEM cam plate is more than adequate for the job.

 

Got it! sorry for the confusion, yeah, I rather not cut the push rods, this will be my winter 2016 project

 

I've done several spring tensioner shoes replacements with the tool in the video (mine first, then a few friend's bikes). My best friend is the guy who makes and sells them. It removes the rear (secondary) tensioner without removing the cams from the cam plate which means the outer cam bearings don't have to be replaced. I would recommend replacing the inner cam bearings with B148 full complement bearings.

I don't cut pushrods and I re-use rocker cover gaskets. I do replace the cam cover gasket, oil bypass spring with a Baisley LMR-2 and the oil pump O rings. If requested, (and I recommend it) I replace the breathers in the rocker box with the newer style. Of course I use Cyco replacement shoes.

It's not that big a job and going to the hydraulic conversion doesn't relieve you of having to check the rear tensioner as the link chain is retained on the back side of the came plate. That's a dirty little secret the dealer won't tell you or even worse; that they don't know.

With all my stuff laid out its a few hours and not much money. In the end you have more durable shoes that won't crack and break that are as good as anything else that isn't gear drive.

I've really done nothing more than posting a link or two to the tool in relevant threads because I didn't want to be a shill. But it does exactly what you see, first time every time. If it interests you, have a look at the link and contact him. My involvement was to tell my friend who is a machinist "I want that thing off there without taking those cams out". Like a great machinist and friend he made a tool for it

 

They do. See my post above.

 

That's about what my 02 Fatboy looks like with same mileage. My buddy got 60,000 out of his 02 Heritage before changing and they were still a little more than half worn. Not to worried about inner bearings as 2002 was the last year with Timkin bearings. I'll check mine again at 35,000 miles. Btw, I've only heard heavily worn tensioners exploding. Please show examples if you know otherwise. Tia

 

Timken are the crank bearings and have nothing to do with inner cam bearings. Check out the two photos; one with about 12K miles and one with about 24K miles. I am sure you can find and post photos of tensioners that look good with more miles as there are thousands of early models running around without tensioner issues. But who wants to be the one out of ten that has to rebuild a motor because a tensioner comes apart?? **** happens, just hope it doesn't happen to you or, replace the shitty tensioners and make sure it doesn't. Why do you think the MoCo changed to hydraulic pressure instead of the heavy spring pressure and to a different material that was not affected by heat and exposure to oil???

 

My bad on Timkin bearings.....but generally, bearing issues didn't really start showing up until 2003 (and later) models were in the marketplace. As for exploding tensioners......I've talked to many owners of 2000-2006 twin cams and it seems the tensioners either wear out early around 12,000 miles, or they last for 40,000-60,000 miles. Me thinks it depends the dies used to cut the chain. If the dies are dull the chain will have sharp burrs that quickly eat up plastic tensioners. IMO, its a great idea to inspect them at least every 10,000 miles. JMHO

 

Actually, TC88 motors had outer cam bearing issues from the jump. 2% failure rate on the rear ball bearing in the '99 and into the '00 production year. The rear ball bearing was a running change in the middle of the 2000 production year. The INA inner cam bearing has always been an issue and when they go, usually the only fix is a reman motor or pull the motor, split the cases and make the necessary repairs. As for the tensioner, does it really matter whether the dies used to cut the chain, the wrong tensioner material or the heavy and constant spring pressure causes the early tensioner to fail? Point is they can and do fail and it is a gamble to run them. Why run the risk? Sure, checking them every 10K miles sounds like a great idea until the tensioners fail 2K miles after they have been checked.

The potential problem can be eliminated in a couple of hours for less than $100? Easy fix, particularly if one is in the cam chest anyway as the OP is; half way there. Or maybe some prefer to "live on the edge" and take their chances when a $5000 repair could be the result of the gamble. Just doesn't make sense to me.....