2005 Deuce Engine Upgrades
If my tensioners have never been touched then I'm thinking either S&S gear drive kits 509's or 510's or going with either Andrews 21N or 26N cams and piecing their roller chain kit together, or going with the full Woods kit with either T5-6 or T6-6 cams. The Woods kit seems the most expensive by far but also seems to be the most complete for a roller chain kit.
Just some more info I don't rev my bike out too often I'm a low end torque kind of guy, I keep it fairly low rpm whether I'm 2-up or alone. And I'm about 50/50 in town and highway so I'm thinking I need a low-mid cam but it confuses me cause ive also got a pretty light bike. And I don't plan on anymore work in the future, I'll probly end up getting a newer and bigger bike within the next couple years anyways. If I did tho it will be 95'' with some head work, so choosing a cam that can work with both options would be right on.
If my tensioners have never been touched then I'm thinking either S&S gear drive kits 509's or 510's or going with either Andrews 21N or 26N cams and piecing their roller chain kit together, or going with the full Woods kit with either T5-6 or T6-6 cams. The Woods kit seems the most expensive by far but also seems to be the most complete for a roller chain kit.
Just some more info I don't rev my bike out too often I'm a low end torque kind of guy, I keep it fairly low rpm whether I'm 2-up or alone. And I'm about 50/50 in town and highway so I'm thinking I need a low-mid cam but it confuses me cause ive also got a pretty light bike. And I don't plan on anymore work in the future, I'll probly end up getting a newer and bigger bike within the next couple years anyways. If I did tho it will be 95'' with some head work, so choosing a cam that can work with both options would be right on.
If my tensioners have never been touched then I'm thinking either S&S gear drive kits 509's or 510's or going with either Andrews 21N or 26N cams and piecing their roller chain kit together, or going with the full Woods kit with either T5-6 or T6-6 cams. The Woods kit seems the most expensive by far but also seems to be the most complete for a roller chain kit.
Just some more info I don't rev my bike out too often I'm a low end torque kind of guy, I keep it fairly low rpm whether I'm 2-up or alone. And I'm about 50/50 in town and highway so I'm thinking I need a low-mid cam but it confuses me cause ive also got a pretty light bike. And I don't plan on anymore work in the future, I'll probly end up getting a newer and bigger bike within the next couple years anyways. If I did tho it will be 95'' with some head work, so choosing a cam that can work with both options would be right on.
One of my bikes is a 2005 Deuce. I built the 95" motor shortly after I took delivery; 104TQ/94HP which was respectable 10 years ago. However, I have the parts on the shelf for a 98" motor that I expect will make 115TQ/110HP which was not possible 10 years ago. So I can tell you a few things about the '05 TC88" motor.
The '05 heads were the worst HD has put on a motor ever; however, '05 was the year HD introduced the beehive springs and the 7mm valve stems. The valves were a bit smaller than previous years and the new guide seals were prone to leak and oil consumption was a problem; many, mine included were replaced under warranty. The beehive springs increased the max cam lift from previous years from .510" to .570" so the cams you have listed are worth another look as none have lifts above .510". Having said that, having even mild head work done to take advantage of higher lift cams and remove the bottle neck at the heads is probably the best thing you can do for that motor.
So, you need to give some thought to a build plan based on how long you intend to keep the bike, the amount of work you are confident you can do yourself and how much money you are willing to spend; then you can develop a plan. You could go from addressing the tensioner issue and set of cams to the bolt on 110" kit; gotta pay to play, you just need to decide how hard you want to play......
One of my bikes is a 2005 Deuce. I built the 95" motor shortly after I took delivery; 104TQ/94HP which was respectable 10 years ago. However, I have the parts on the shelf for a 98" motor that I expect will make 115TQ/110HP which was not possible 10 years ago. So I can tell you a few things about the '05 TC88" motor.
The '05 heads were the worst HD has put on a motor ever; however, '05 was the year HD introduced the beehive springs and the 7mm valve stems. The valves were a bit smaller than previous years and the new guide seals were prone to leak and oil consumption was a problem; many, mine included were replaced under warranty. The beehive springs increased the max cam lift from previous years from .510" to .570" so the cams you have listed are worth another look as none have lifts above .510". Having said that, having even mild head work done to take advantage of higher lift cams and remove the bottle neck at the heads is probably the best thing you can do for that motor.
So, you need to give some thought to a build plan based on how long you intend to keep the bike, the amount of work you are confident you can do yourself and how much money you are willing to spend; then you can develop a plan. You could go from addressing the tensioner issue and set of cams to the bolt on 110" kit; gotta pay to play, you just need to decide how hard you want to play......
With taking your suggestions into consideration what would you say to just upgrading to CYCO shoes, putting in a set of cams and pushrods, fuel mapping and just riding her til I trade-up?
With taking your suggestions into consideration what would you say to just upgrading to CYCO shoes, putting in a set of cams and pushrods, fuel mapping and just riding her til I trade-up?
If you only ride 4 months out of the year, how long will it take you to roll up 20K to 30K miles? By the time you get ready to trade, HD will have introduced the new four valve, liquid cooled, three cam, 120" motor as the new standard
My advice would be to spend as much as you are comfortable spending now. Increasing displacement to 95"/98", a set of mild cams and mild headwork will get you to 100TQ/100HP and then some really easy, even with those poor performing BR pipes.
The easiest and cheapest way to get your foot in the water would be to address the tensioner issue by replacing the tensioner shoes with the CYCO pieces, upgrading the inner cam bearings to B148s, and installing a set of S&S 509, Andrews 26 or SE204 cams; take your pick. With a cam only upgrade, you could get by with a less sophisticated fuel management system like the V&H FP3 which offers a library of mapped tunes but also has an auto tune feature to fine tune a map. Or you can spend a bit more for the TTS Mastertune or DJ Powervision and dyno tune. Best bet would be to seek out your local dyno tuner and see what he/she recommends for fuel management.
Once you do that and find yourself wanting more power, going bigger bore, head work and most likely a different cam set would be the next logical step.
If you only ride 4 months out of the year, how long will it take you to roll up 20K to 30K miles? By the time you get ready to trade, HD will have introduced the new four valve, liquid cooled, three cam, 120" motor as the new standard
My advice would be to spend as much as you are comfortable spending now. Increasing displacement to 95"/98", a set of mild cams and mild headwork will get you to 100TQ/100HP and then some really easy, even with those poor performing BR pipes.
The easiest and cheapest way to get your foot in the water would be to address the tensioner issue by replacing the tensioner shoes with the CYCO pieces, upgrading the inner cam bearings to B148s, and installing a set of S&S 509, Andrews 26 or SE204 cams; take your pick. With a cam only upgrade, you could get by with a less sophisticated fuel management system like the V&H FP3 which offers a library of mapped tunes but also has an auto tune feature to fine tune a map. Or you can spend a bit more for the TTS Mastertune or DJ Powervision and dyno tune. Best bet would be to seek out your local dyno tuner and see what he/she recommends for fuel management.
Once you do that and find yourself wanting more power, going bigger bore, head work and most likely a different cam set would be the next logical step.
I'll be honest I love my deuce and I'm comfy doing long hauls by myself, the only thing it lacks is storage and comfort for the old lady(I have a custom rear fender) and that's the whole reason I wanted to trade up, the reason I thought Dyna was because newer model Softails don't appeal to me and I really like the look of the newer StreetBobs and WideGlides(heavy touring bikes just don't appeal to me since I like to bar hop and town ride a lot) and I'm seeing what the cheaper option is(new bike with the new tensioner style and bigger motor/6-speed tranny or do some custom work to the deuce to achieve those options, mainly custom build seat for the custom fender instead of the lick-n-stick passenger seat and replace the aftermarket tie down saddle bags). I have a feeling upgrading to the newer bike would be the better option at this point considering my bike is worth within 2-3000$ difference of a newer Dyna.
Maybe back to the drawing board for me then. I'm gunna either shop around for a new bike this fall or do the full winter build I think. I appreciate your help man, the closest indy and/or Harley shop is around 300 miles away from where I live so its a huge help getting on the forums.
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I'll be honest I love my deuce and I'm comfy doing long hauls by myself, the only thing it lacks is storage and comfort for the old lady(I have a custom rear fender) and that's the whole reason I wanted to trade up, the reason I thought Dyna was because newer model Softails don't appeal to me and I really like the look of the newer StreetBobs and WideGlides(heavy touring bikes just don't appeal to me since I like to bar hop and town ride a lot) and I'm seeing what the cheaper option is(new bike with the new tensioner style and bigger motor/6-speed tranny or do some custom work to the deuce to achieve those options, mainly custom build seat for the custom fender instead of the lick-n-stick passenger seat and replace the aftermarket tie down saddle bags). I have a feeling upgrading to the newer bike would be the better option at this point considering my bike is worth within 2-3000$ difference of a newer Dyna.
Maybe back to the drawing board for me then. I'm gunna either shop around for a new bike this fall or do the full winter build I think. I appreciate your help man, the closest indy and/or Harley shop is around 300 miles away from where I live so its a huge help getting on the forums.
In all honesty, if I were to do it all over again, I would have bought a Fatboy instead of the Deuce. It can be outfitted with quick release bags, demountable luggage rack and windshield like the Heritage softail and all that can be stripped off for in town profiling if one is into that. Having said that, lots of bar hopping can be done on a Streetglide; very cool profile even with bags and bat wing. Let me know if you go with the winter build. A couple of years back, I helped a guy in Canada with his 95" build; HD won't ship parts internationally so in addition to helping with the build plan, I purchased parts and sent them to him.
Last edited by djl; Jun 22, 2016 at 02:01 PM.










