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Pushrod / Lifter ?

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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 07:39 AM
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Default Pushrod / Lifter ?

Greetings,


If, during a cam installation, the pushrods are installed with 0.125" preload, the lifters bleed down and the pushrods are twirlable by hand with a bit of resistance, then the pushrods are removed.....


When reinstalling the pushrods, do the pushrods need to be readjusted with 0.125" (or higher) preload again? Do the lifters open up again to need the additional preload, or once they do bleed down that's it, they have taken a "set" at this point and no additional preload is necessary?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 07:59 AM
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Once you properly adjust the pushrod it's the same as a solid pushrod and that it will continue to fit properly as long as you do not change any other variable in the squish
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rauchman
Greetings,


If, during a cam installation, the pushrods are installed with 0.125" preload, the lifters bleed down and the pushrods are twirlable by hand with a bit of resistance, then the pushrods are removed.....


When reinstalling the pushrods, do the pushrods need to be readjusted with 0.125" (or higher) preload again? Do the lifters open up again to need the additional preload, or once they do bleed down that's it, they have taken a "set" at this point and no additional preload is necessary?
You have adjustables why would you take the top end apart to remove them. They have to come out to get at your oil pump
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jurgie
You have adjustables why would you take the top end apart to remove them. They have to come out to get at your oil pump
Yes, have adjustables. Sorry, wasn't clear. Wasn't planning on taking top end apart. My plan was to ....


- Remove exhaust, floorboard and AC
- Unscrew lifter covers
- Remove pushrods by backing off the adjuster and make them short enough to pull out
- Remove lifter covers and pushrods
- Hold lifters up by using the binder clip thingy
- Remove cam cover
- Take off sprockets
- Remove cam plate
- Remove oil pump
- Verify order of oil pump pieces for reinstall
- Verify 3 oil pump O-rings are in place
- Time oil pump to crankshaft
- Tighten up oil pump to cam plate
- Verify timing dots of cams
- Install cam plate with cams and oil pump
- Install sprockets
- Reinstall lifter covers and pushrods
- Make pushrods hand tight since the lifters have already been bled
- Reinstall cam cover, AC, exhaust, floor boards


Does this sound correct?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rauchman
Yes, have adjustables. Sorry, wasn't clear. Wasn't planning on taking top end apart. My plan was to ....


- Remove exhaust, floorboard and AC
- Unscrew lifter covers
- Remove pushrods by backing off the adjuster and make them short enough to pull out
- Remove lifter covers and pushrods
- Hold lifters up by using the binder clip thingy
- Remove cam cover
- Take off sprockets
- Remove cam plate
- Remove oil pump
- Verify order of oil pump pieces for reinstall
- Verify 3 oil pump O-rings are in place
- Time oil pump to crankshaft
- Tighten up oil pump to cam plate
- Verify timing dots of cams
- Install cam plate with cams and oil pump
- Install sprockets
- Reinstall lifter covers and pushrods
- Make pushrods hand tight since the lifters have already been bled
- Reinstall cam cover, AC, exhaust, floor boards


Does this sound correct?
You still have to adjust pushrods pre load to .140 make sure you can spin them before moving to next set.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rauchman
Yes, have adjustables. Sorry, wasn't clear. Wasn't planning on taking top end apart. My plan was to ....


- Remove exhaust, floorboard and AC
- Unscrew lifter covers
- Remove pushrods by backing off the adjuster and make them short enough to pull out
- Remove lifter covers and pushrods
- Hold lifters up by using the binder clip thingy
- Remove cam cover
- Take off sprockets
- Remove cam plate
- Remove oil pump
- Verify order of oil pump pieces for reinstall
- Verify 3 oil pump O-rings are in place
- Time oil pump to crankshaft
- Tighten up oil pump to cam plate
- Verify timing dots of cams
- Install cam plate with cams and oil pump
- Install sprockets
- Reinstall lifter covers and pushrods
- Make pushrods hand tight since the lifters have already been bled
- Reinstall cam cover, AC, exhaust, floor boards


Does this sound correct?
Just to be clear, aligning the oil pump to the crank and tightening the pump bolts to secure the pump to the cam plate are not separate operations. The pump will self align as you rotate the rear wheel, plugs out, in top gear as you slowly tighten two of the fasteners in opposite corners. Once those first two are as tight at you can get them without tools, you can go ahead and torque all the pump to plate bolts.

The one thing I noted in your other thread was the high temp reached very quickly on the first start up; that is a symptom of sumping. Sumping is a result of the oil pump scavenge spigot not sealing properly at the scavenge port in the case. Good idea to check that o-ring ad pay particular attention to the fitment of the spigot into the crank case scavenge port.

Pushrods must be adjusted just as you did the first time; no change.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 03:47 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by djl
Just to be clear, aligning the oil pump to the crank and tightening the pump bolts to secure the pump to the cam plate are not separate operations. The pump will self align as you rotate the rear wheel, plugs out, in top gear as you slowly tighten two of the fasteners in opposite corners. Once those first two are as tight at you can get them without tools, you can go ahead and torque all the pump to plate bolts.

The one thing I noted in your other thread was the high temp reached very quickly on the first start up; that is a symptom of sumping. Sumping is a result of the oil pump scavenge spigot not sealing properly at the scavenge port in the case. Good idea to check that o-ring ad pay particular attention to the fitment of the spigot into the crank case scavenge port.

Pushrods must be adjusted just as you did the first time; no change.

Excellent info!!!! Thank you.


Just to verify, the pushrods will need to finger tightened, then the additional 0.125" - 0.140" preload added?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rauchman
excellent info!!!! Thank you.


Just to verify, the pushrods will need to finger tightened, then the additional 0.125" - 0.140" preload added?
right on you call it finger tight i call it zero lash finger tight and than pre load do this on base circle of cam
 
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Old Jul 7, 2016 | 07:30 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by jurgie
right on you call it finger tight i call it zero lash finger tight and than pre load do this on base circle of cam

Excellent and thank you.


Started the process of the tear down again last night. It is ungodly hot and humid in the garage, and will be all this week.


Getting there....


Will post up results as they happen.
 
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