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Boring vs Piston Cyl. Kit

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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 06:43 PM
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Default Boring vs Piston Cyl. Kit

I've always heard it's best to bore with pistons on hand. That was a long time ago and I'm wondering if it changed with the new tech. Are the kits bored to match each piston or is it assembly line style?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 06:57 PM
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From S&S
"S&S 4-1/8" pistons are machined to such close tolerances that it is not necessary to measure the piston. Additionally, the low friction coating on the piston skirt of early production pistons without micrometer window makes taking measurements very difficult. Therefore, hone cylinders to nominal diameter +/- 0.0001" for correct clearance. Current production pistons have micrometer windows in the coating on the piston skirts that allow accurate measurements to be taken. These pistons may be installed by honing cylinder to nominal diameter +/- 0.0001" or by measuring piston and honing cylinder to achieve .002" - .0025" close clearance for street applications or .0032" - .0045" loose clearance for immediate competition use."
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 11:15 PM
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Personally, I would never install a cylinder/piston set without verifying proper clearances, no matter what any manufacturer says. And yeah, If I were having cylinders bored, I would have the pistons on hand to verify that everything is indeed "up to snuff".
 
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 05:04 AM
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We bore cylinders constantly here, in various engines, from T/C to Flatheads.
We always, repeat, always, measure skirt diameters.
If you know how to measure a piston, the non-coated piston(which has been forever) presents no problem whatsoever.
That window is no different than one needing a sign to tell you to slow down on a curvy road........common sense.
Scott
 
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 05:52 AM
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I would never buy a kit where the pistons are not the EXACT set the cylinders where bored for,we`ve seen a fair amount of failed "production"cylinders here,or at least have them torque plated & checked by someone with the proper equipment
 

Last edited by prodrag1320; Oct 20, 2016 at 05:55 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 08:11 AM
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I'm looking for a good 117". The plan was Mahle 4032 flat tops and S&S jugs. I'll need the full width wrist pin and would like the pistons to be about 1035g's for the S&S Crank.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Sisu
I'm looking for a good 117". The plan was Mahle 4032 flat tops and S&S jugs. I'll need the full width wrist pin and would like the pistons to be about 1035g's for the S&S Crank.
Whatever brand of Pistons that you choose, 'recommend Pistons with a 3mm Oil Ring, and Nitrided Oil Rails in the Ring Pack...
 
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 09:41 AM
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*Mahle Pistons feature
*Forged from 4032 aluminum alloy for tighter cylinder wall clearances and quietier operation
*Forged 4032 alloy with grafal anti-friction coating on skirts
*Phosphat-coated to reduce micro-welding and pin galling
*Pin bores finished on CNC boring equipment
*High strength 9310, light weight nitrided steel wrist pins
*1.5mm plasma moly top rings, 1.5mm napier cast second rings
*3mm low tension oil rings

I like the tight fit.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 10:10 AM
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Select any piston you want but have cylinders bored and new pistons fitted to the piston manufacture's specs. Should be obvious from previous posts that purchasing a piston cylinder kit is a crap shoot. If you truly "like the tight fit" having the cylinders bored to fit the pistons is the way to go.
 

Last edited by djl; Oct 20, 2016 at 10:13 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 10:25 AM
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The Mahles are not available oversize for 117" through the vender. They use HD jugs for their kits. I wanted S&S jugs. I'm not stuck on any one part. But I do want the 4032 pistons.
 
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