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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I've always heard it's best to bore with pistons on hand. That was a long time ago and I'm wondering if it changed with the new tech. Are the kits bored to match each piston or is it assembly line style?
From S&S
"S&S 4-1/8" pistons are machined to such close tolerances that it is not necessary to measure the piston. Additionally, the low friction coating on the piston skirt of early production pistons without micrometer window makes taking measurements very difficult. Therefore, hone cylinders to nominal diameter +/- 0.0001" for correct clearance. Current production pistons have micrometer windows in the coating on the piston skirts that allow accurate measurements to be taken. These pistons may be installed by honing cylinder to nominal diameter +/- 0.0001" or by measuring piston and honing cylinder to achieve .002" - .0025" close clearance for street applications or .0032" - .0045" loose clearance for immediate competition use."
Personally, I would never install a cylinder/piston set without verifying proper clearances, no matter what any manufacturer says. And yeah, If I were having cylinders bored, I would have the pistons on hand to verify that everything is indeed "up to snuff".
We bore cylinders constantly here, in various engines, from T/C to Flatheads.
We always, repeat, always, measure skirt diameters.
If you know how to measure a piston, the non-coated piston(which has been forever) presents no problem whatsoever.
That window is no different than one needing a sign to tell you to slow down on a curvy road........common sense.
Scott
I would never buy a kit where the pistons are not the EXACT set the cylinders where bored for,we`ve seen a fair amount of failed "production"cylinders here,or at least have them torque plated & checked by someone with the proper equipment
Last edited by prodrag1320; Oct 20, 2016 at 05:55 AM.
I'm looking for a good 117". The plan was Mahle 4032 flat tops and S&S jugs. I'll need the full width wrist pin and would like the pistons to be about 1035g's for the S&S Crank.
I'm looking for a good 117". The plan was Mahle 4032 flat tops and S&S jugs. I'll need the full width wrist pin and would like the pistons to be about 1035g's for the S&S Crank.
Whatever brand of Pistons that you choose, 'recommend Pistons with a 3mm Oil Ring, and Nitrided Oil Rails in the Ring Pack...
Select any piston you want but have cylinders bored and new pistons fitted to the piston manufacture's specs. Should be obvious from previous posts that purchasing a piston cylinder kit is a crap shoot. If you truly "like the tight fit" having the cylinders bored to fit the pistons is the way to go.
The Mahles are not available oversize for 117" through the vender. They use HD jugs for their kits. I wanted S&S jugs. I'm not stuck on any one part. But I do want the 4032 pistons.
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