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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
That's the way I understood it. And that part is no longer available or something like that....
I could not find it either. However, that is the simple part for the shop with a lathe. Even mild steel would be stronger the the original aluminum bore. The real challange is a shop that has something with the accuracy to get it bored in the correct position in the case half since what they have to set to is not correct. Even when Harley made the original part, the outer faces, and configuration and the bore was done in one operation. Now, they are trying to set up to something and keep it all true in two planes and to another matching part. Ever small amount amount they miss it must be able adjust a slight bit more clearance in the roller bearings so they do not run perfectly true. What you had at first was a joke. They must have did the whole thing on a Harbour Freight Drill press..
I do believe you do have tapered bearings for main crank bearings don't you?
This is a more modern TCb with roller bearings but what they are up against to set it up
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 07:48 AM.
You sure he's using SS for sleeve material? I woulda thought sintered bronze would have been better.
I suspect that the SS is only a way to hold the bearing.. Only need bronze if the material is the bearing. Bronze wouldn't work well here tho. Sintered bronze even worse as it is really a self lubricating bearing for dry applications and softer than other bronzes.
I talked to Scott today. He just happened to be machining a new ring for left side case timkem bearing race.. Appears the old one was made out of iron and because the shaft end play was out so much it created a hammering affect to the bearing which in turn made everything shift and partially block the oil port to the main bearing... . He is going to secure the new ring in place with the Dutchmen method 3 allen set screws @ 120* apart with 10* taper.. Should keep it from moving. Hopefully i shouldn't have anymore issues with that or the unnecessary lateral stress it was putting on IPB. Need to get another one of those as well from Baker, It's toast. Progress is good though.....
Does it make a difference in the type of material used?
Does not really matter. It is pressed and locked into the cast aluminum case half. Brass, mild free machining steel or SS will work. The harden bearing presses into it. It basically repairing the worn out original case bore where the inner bearing race originally pressed into. Nothing turns or wears on it.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 17, 2017 at 05:34 PM.
I was told by the guy that did my cases that steel wouldn't work as well as brass. I don't remember his reason for that but he did guarantee his work not to fail. Never had an issue with his fix. Can't remember his name or shop name,lol
Well it turned out the crank was out .019" on the primary side taking out the left side of the case. Scott is currently machining new parts for the case. So it's going through an overhaul again. DOH!!!!
Sorry Mike not trying to HiJack..... I did repost my old thread though
No, I just copied it from the post that bagger replied in over in the Evo section and didn't want to hiJack Mike's coil thread... Thats all, so I figured if any one wanted to reply I left the link there to look here....
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