Are these the SE adjustable pushrods you used ???

They recommend 2.5 turns from zero lash ... Some recommend 3 turns for a quieter operation..
If you look at the pushrods , they have 4 "large" flats, (ie, 4 flats = 1 full turn)... When adjusting , (after correctly finding zero lash),, mark the flat pointing at you... To get 2.5 turns hold, the adjuster, (with smaller wrench), and turn push rod with half inch wrench , (to lengthen pushrod), 10 flats,... If you want 3 turns, turn pushrod 12 flats .....

When you locked down the lock nut to pushrod , did you use "three" wrenches so that the adjuster would not turn when locking the lock nut down to the pushrod ???
If you have double checked above, and you still have problems, then everything points to a bad lifter .....

PS . I have edited the above post to make it easier to understand .....

 

The SE tapered rods are 24 tpi.

 

No, these are the ones I used. The rods have 6 flats. And yes I used three wrenches to lock them down. One on the adjuster, one on the rod, and one for the jam nut.

 

If your adjustable PR are 24 TPI then adjust to 20 flats. That will put your preload to .138". at 15 flats you're only at .103" preload and with the increased lift and duration of the 255 it will be noisy........ Crank it up to 20 flats and you'll be fine....

Just make sure they are 24 TPI......

 

Hey Little Mike, Sorry to hear of your problems ! You never stated what year & model your Bike was ! You bring up a good point, the Rockouts, this guy wasn't even a H-D Tech, BUT, he knew that something wasn't right. You can add the Rockouts, to a long list of problems with this motor ! The motor started out, for the most part OK ! The 99 thru 02, had a forged crank & Timkin bearings, yes they had some cam & tensioner problems, but, if you caught it early, you had a decent bike ! Then came the 2003 model year, the MoCo, knew there was a pent-up demand, for the Anniversary Year, so, to take advantage of maybe a million bike sales, Worldwide, they cheapened the bikes, with the pressed Cast Crank, etc., to line their pockets. Another example is the 2004 Sportster, 1st year, rubber mount, also the 1st year, WITHOUT a trapdoor to tranny ? WTF ? The only reason to do this, is to cheapen the build, more money in the kitty ! Now, if you have a minor trans problem, the motor needs to come out, & split the cases, WTF ? I for one, am glad to see this POS,TC motor go BYE, BYE, after 18 years. I'm hoping this old Evo style motor makes it. H-D has a New CEO, who is a Biker ! The out going CEO was NOT a Biker, he was a Bean Counter !

Getting back to you, Little Mike, change your lifters to S&S, quality stuff, made in Wisconsin ! Harley stuff made in "God knows where"? Good Luck, BJ

 

One thing to note was that the cranks did not change from hot forged to cold forged until after the start of the 05 model year (sept 2004)..

 

Sorry, my error. 2011 Road Glide Custom with the 103". On an additional note. I already have my Rockouts ordered but I saw a video last night by the company that makes Rocker Lockers showing the end play in the rocker arms when sitting in the towers. While way less play than at the bolt it is definitely there. Looks like they are selling a tool to "machine" the gap a little more so that a more substantial shim, or spacer or whatever you wanted to call it, that won't deteriorate can be installed to take up that free play. I haven't gone to their website to check it out yet but here's the link to the video.

 

Little Mike when you install your Rock outs, check your end play then give them a shout out. I for one will be checking mine when I do my cam swap and lifter swap. Now your original question, I believe your right in thinking lifter is going bad. But your better off changing all 4 lifters and not just the bad one. Use what ever brand you like just not OEM replacements!