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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I ended up putting 255's in my 103. Passes north of 100 ft/lbs from 2400 rpm through 46-4700 rpm. falls off quick after that. Except for the SE Hi-flow A/C, a decatted head pipe, and a set of Klock Werks slip-ons it's stock. I could spend more on other upgrades that would increase the numbers and run it out a bit further but the $$ for them isn't really there and, to be honest, I just don't wind it up that tight anymore. Two up with the wife 95+% of the time and pull a trailer a couple times a year with camping gear. What I do have is all the usable power that's available from the 255's right where I need it, at the bottom end to get our bottom ends and the heavy bike scooting, and where I spend almost 100% of my time. The bike settles in nicely right about 3100 rpm at cruising speed which still gives me room to roll on for passing. The other cam recommended to me by the tuner was the 48. I went with the 255 because I was able to get a set of new take offs for $150.
What's the seat pressure on the stock beehives on a 103? don't think we are taking about the same beehive springs... There is a different High Perf. spring userd in the SE110 that's a beehive also. Installed at 208lbs on the seat.
Stock beehives on 96/103 motor are about 135# on the seat; 325# at full lift on stock cams which is shy of .500". Five years back, the conventional "wisdom" was that stock springs were acceptable up to .560" lift and .575" lift was the break point where stronger springs were required. About that time, Mr. Woods changed his break point for stiffer springs to .590" lift and we all know that his cams are known for the aggressive ramps.
JMHO but stiffer springs add to valve train noise and also beat up valve seats and unless one is drag racing or constantly running up against the rev limiter and needs to control valves at high rpms, OEM springs will get the job done without that added angst. Most of the motor configurations we see discussed on this forum will do just fine with OEM beehives and the OP's motor with Andrews 48 cams just doesn't need stiffer springs. No issue with anyone that wants to install stiffer springs, I just don't subscribe.
I have seen guys come into a local indy shop after insisting on stiffer valve springs only to return a few weeks later complaining of valve train noise. The indy replaces the stiffer springs with the OEM beehives, problem solved. Motor runs just as good, and owner is happy.
NOTE: My reference to "conventional wisdom" refers to valve spring rate discussions from different HD forums over the years and I make no claim to the accuracy of "conventional wisdom" but the posts I paid attention to were those posted by reputable builders/porters........
For plug and play application, neither, as both intake closing numbers dictate that they need more compression to be fully effective.
Andrews 48 is your man.
Scott
What about on the stock Twin Cooled motors that have a bit more compression?
Andrews 48 or 57?
Or would the Woods 222 or 555 be ok then?
Thanks for the info djl. I do have the upgraded springs and yes the valve train is much more pronounced as you might hear at idle before this little wot romp.
I do ride hard with a few Victory and other HD riders.
Just a follow up on the bolton cam job recently just finished and dyno'd on my '16 Sultra Classic. Did it all myself! Sorry no pics. I work so slow without taking pics too, lol. Hillside recommended the Andrews 47h. Installed them with the right stuff, no head work, FM header, V&H 4" slipons and March2 AC. Seems to run pretty good so far around town. I'll have it on the highway this weekend but I think I'll be quite satisfied. Least for awhile.
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