Big bore break in issues 02 dyna...fueling??
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From: san antonio
Agree with all that has been said about the ignition. I have learned, the hard way, that the CV carb usually works better with all OEM parts; easier to tune and makes more power. Suggest removing all aftermarket parts (except the A/F screw) and returning the carb to OEM configuration. As Max usually says, "gotta give the motor what it wants" but 220 seems way to much main; 190-200 should be about right. I know not a fair comparison but I run a CV44 on a built all bore 107" motor with the N8EL needle with two .025" washers, 46 slow and a 220 main; I do run the aftermarket lighter slide spring. I tried the needle with one washer and mileage improved but showed a bit lean a partial throttle on the dyno so back to two washers I went. Not as much compression as the OPs, CCP is about 190psi.
Last edited by djl; May 7, 2017 at 09:15 AM.
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From: Grande Prairie Alberta
Agree with all that has been said about the ignition. I have learned, the hard way, that the CV carb usually works better with all OEM parts; easier to tune and makes more power. Suggest removing all aftermarket parts (except the A/F screw) and returning the carb to OEM configuration. As Max usually says, "gotta give the motor what it wants" but 220 seems way to much main; 190-200 should be about right. I know not a fair comparison but I run a CV44 on a built all bore 107" motor with the N8EL needle with two .025" washers, 46 slow and a 220 main; I do run the aftermarket lighter slide spring. I tried the needle with one washer and mileage improved but showed a bit lean a partial throttle on the dyno so back to two washers I went. Not as much compression as the OPs, CCP is about 190psi.
Last edited by pegskraper; May 7, 2017 at 07:49 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Waterville MN
Maybe my bike is somehow odd, but I need to run my ignition settings way higher then everyone tells me. It takes two seconds to change, maybe try 3/3 or 4/4? I am running 5/6 currently. A/F will change as well when you change these settings.
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From: Grande Prairie Alberta
but if I advance the timing past 2/2 aren't i risking detonation?
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From: poway
Try it.. Since you have mid range issues, try increasing the curve setting.. Leave advance alone.. In creasing the curve setting will advance timing throughout but it does more in the mid RPM range.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Waterville MN
When my bike was still injected, even after expensive dyno tuning, I could hear detonation start when on a long uphill pull when riding two up on a hot day. I would need to drop a gear or back off quickly. Point is, you can hear it.
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From: Grande Prairie Alberta
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From: Grande Prairie Alberta
I pulled the carb, shimmed the needle with 2 shims, cleaned all ports etc. with carb cleaner. Took apart and cleaned the enrichener, threw in the 200 main. I changed my dtt ignition to 2, 3 and took her out for a run. No more hesitation in those rev ranges! Feels like the bike has gotten way snappier too. So now I have another question. I watched the DTT video on setting these up and they say to play around with it. Is the trick to just keep advancing the curve until it detonates, then going back one setting, and keeping the initial setting at 2, or do I go 3, 3, or 3, 4 something like that?
From what I understand the initial moves the curve more to the right when you go up in numbers and the advance "advances" the timing..dtt and hillsidecycles say start at 2,2...now at 2,3 it seems to be running normally (but way better than it did before I did all the work!).. if I were to move the initial to 3, what would that do? I don't totally get the concept of moving the whole curve to the right...
thanks for all the tips!
From what I understand the initial moves the curve more to the right when you go up in numbers and the advance "advances" the timing..dtt and hillsidecycles say start at 2,2...now at 2,3 it seems to be running normally (but way better than it did before I did all the work!).. if I were to move the initial to 3, what would that do? I don't totally get the concept of moving the whole curve to the right...
thanks for all the tips!
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From: poway
The best way is to use a dyno but since you don't have one SOP (seat of pants) will have to do. Download the programming software and spend time loading the curves and looking at them.. You can open 2 copies of the software to compare..
You can advance timing till you hear the ping then figure out where it is.. If it's mid range decrease curve and increase adv. If it's upper RPMs decrease advance and increase curve.
Advancing the timing until ping works but you really want to back off 2-3 (sometimes more) degrees for optimum performance. If you think you have it down wide open throttle (30 hg Map), you might get ping at partial throttle, that's where programming can com in handy.
You can advance timing till you hear the ping then figure out where it is.. If it's mid range decrease curve and increase adv. If it's upper RPMs decrease advance and increase curve.
Advancing the timing until ping works but you really want to back off 2-3 (sometimes more) degrees for optimum performance. If you think you have it down wide open throttle (30 hg Map), you might get ping at partial throttle, that's where programming can com in handy.