Ive started to pull the 103 motor apart so I can get my cylinders to hillside for a 107 bore .hopefully in the next month, putting my 96 cylinders back on plateau honed to 280 hardly any wear on them at all, new set of rings. all way under wear specs. I'm also chasing a low oil pressure problem, lots of pressure when cold, not bad when the weather was only 55 out, now that we are getting some days in the 80s ,after a good hour of driving ive only got about 18 psi from 2 grand till about 3 grand once I get over 3300 almost hits 30, reads about 12 from idle to 2 grand. the bike was never like this. crank run out is .0014 should have tried a manual gauge on bike , this oil problem started after a severe overheat on tourist trail by the dragon no where to get bike off narrow road except into the bush, stopped when I could, even stopped for over an hour at a clearing but got trapped again on the next section of driving.
cam plate cam holes rear hole is about 1.101-to 1.1015
front is about 1.1015-1.102 depending where u measure it spec in manual says change at 1.1023 so I'm pretty close to the limits.. frigging manual has no numbers for brand new cam plate holes, would kinda be nice to know what ive worn off
crankshaft hole reads .8528-.8535 so that's about a .001 from the max of.8545 ,again no number for a brand new crankshaft bushing hole id.
I cant find a number in the manual for the crank shaft OD that fits into the cam plate brass bushing . I still have to take some reading on crank od.
started to check oil pump for wear I cant get a .0015 between the gearotors on the outer pump I haven't checked the inner gears yet and outer ring fit in aluminum housing appears tight but I still need to take measurements 1:45 in the morning enough is enough have to work at 7 am. gggggrrrrrr just noticed I didnt measure the lifter bores before I wrote this, time to go to work.

 

The pinion shaft's I've checked are 0.850 when new. You should be able to mike that on an area where the shaft has not worn into the bushing and get the same number.

Not sure what you are trying to do but I would be more suspicious of your pressure sensor than anything else.. Using a mechanical gauge to confirm is a good idea.. If you are looking for something to be worn to cause the pressure drop, confirm with a better gauge first.. The numbers you are seeing for measurements are not the issue.. I would be more suspicious of oil loosing viscosity from the heat than anything else. Especially if it's dino.

Not sure I understand why you are installing the 96 cylinders.. Why not leave the 103 cylinders on and bore out the 96 ci cylinders?


Don't know platen hone is.. If it's plateau hone, it's not done with 280 grit brushes as far as I know. Plateau hone is something finer the than 280.. Probably 600 grit or above. You need to hone with 280 grit or something closer first tho.

 

new plate crank .850 cam holes 1.100 and yes I spelled plateau wrong that's what happens at 2 am

plateau hone also called flex hone, ball hone by some people was recommended by hillside, and u see them all the time at nhra drag racing when they show motor work in pits u can get them in any range 100-600 plus I had tried a 3 pad hone Cpl years ago when doing the last cylinders I didn't like the finish, and neither did the cylinders over 3-4 year period blow by got worse after a pretty good overheat , that im pretty sure caused the cam plate to wear causing my oil pressure problem. I was .001 and .0015 big on cam holes a few tenths away from the replace limit on cam plate wear according to manual. and due to the usa exchange rate inflate costs by 35% on work or parts ill bore my 103 to 107 and keep the 96 for future use to 103 or 107 . I'm still trying to find used set of heads with acr ports in heads, I cant use my mva heads combustion chamber isnt right for the 107 pistons ya they are on ebay add35% to cost up to 200 for shipping I'm looking at 700 for used heads,even before I pay for hillside to rework to stage 2 , that why I'm sticking old stuff back on bike solve my oil pressure blow by problem and drive it for the summer, If I wait for parts to be machined find heads rework them now I may as well park the bike beause it will take a month or 2 to get stuff ready . just gonna take my time gather up stuff get it to hillside every Cpl months probably stick all the stuff on in the fall. Ill post new oil pressure numbers after I'm finshed
on the new cam plate they got rid of the brass bushing in crankshaft hole, Ill end up getting a new s&s plate and pump when I do the 107 job later just an example usa s&s plate-pump 674 up in can 995 even if I buy it in usa at 674 ad 35-40% then if I decide to declare at border add another 10% with the exchange rate going up the brakes kinda went on slow hold instead of doing it all now rough cost of 107 job with heads cam plate, bore, new cams was about 3200 then tack on exchange of about 1200 bucks I'm way over 4 grand so I'm just gonna drive it enjoy it and grab what I can a bit at a time big thanks to scott at hillside for the 2-3 times ive called asking questions.
http://www.brushresearch.com/

 

First off a plateau hone is not a ball hone. Here is a description of a plateau hone..

https://goodson.com/blogs/goodson-ga...nish-in-honing


As stated it's a soft brush hone that is a real fine grit. It's purpose is to knock the peaks off the cylinder surface after a courser hone. A ball hone is a ball hone. it scratches the surface just like a 3 stone spring hone but does a better of getting the whole surface if the surface has a worn.. Scott might have recommended a ball home but I'm sure his preferred way to do a cylinder is with plates and a fixed hone.. Nothing like making a cylinder straight and round for the rings to seat.

If the motor overheated it was more then likely a bad tune.

Yeah you are right about the MVA heads not being compatible.. They are kind of a waste of money on anything less than a 113. (117 would be better)

 

that what he said I needed I bought it. Ive heard people call it other things obviously those are the wrong names, and yes I also made plates to clamp the cylinder up in simulating being bolted down in the motor while using the hone.
and no it wasn't the tune go to tenn some time on a pioneer trail to homesteads near the dragon then find out later in the ride that the road is now 8 feet wide one way trees right up to the tar on both side and hundreds of cars are leaving at the same time and you cant push the bike because all the people are driving at 1 mph , u cant push your bike all small hills and u cant stop, had I known at exit time this was going to happen I would have sat in the parking lot in the middle of the park for 2-3 hours instead of frying the motor

 

new cam plate, s&s lifters lots of pressure now, 2000 rpm 30 lbs just like repair manual says. didn't get a chance to get on hyway to see what I get, boy are these s&s lifters a lot quieter than those Harley c lifters I took out. I did find an old b I took out years ago and noticed the oil feed hole in the b appears to be about the same size as the s&s ones I put in , the oil feed hole in the c is much smaller, wonder if that keeps them from pumping up as fast and tapping like crazy