Adjusting pushrods
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Granville New York
Adjusting pushrods
Had a lifter go flat. So I have the new lifters in and I'm trying to adjust the pushrods. I put it at zero lash then adjust out the two and a half turns...and I can still spin the pushrod in my fingers just as easily as i could at zero lash...is this ok or is something wrong. Screaming eagle taper rods with s and s lifters ,no travel limiters.This is my first time please be gentle lol
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 654
Likes: 67
From: PacificNorthWest
Are you at TDC compression stroke on the cylinder you are adjusting?
That is where you need to be.
Many ways to find it but put bike in high gear with spark plugs out and rotate rear wheel until you feel air push out of the spark plug hole on the cylinder you are adjusting.
A drinking straw in the hole can help you find the top of the stroke.
Also did you prime the lifters before install?
The cylinder you are not adjusting should be on overlap (both lifters moving) and the cylinder you are adjusting should have no lifter movement (lifters are on the base circle)
That is where you need to be.
Many ways to find it but put bike in high gear with spark plugs out and rotate rear wheel until you feel air push out of the spark plug hole on the cylinder you are adjusting.
A drinking straw in the hole can help you find the top of the stroke.
Also did you prime the lifters before install?
The cylinder you are not adjusting should be on overlap (both lifters moving) and the cylinder you are adjusting should have no lifter movement (lifters are on the base circle)
Last edited by Uncle Fuzzy; Aug 2, 2017 at 07:14 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Granville New York
Done and running
I had it on the compression stroke on the base circle so I just double checked my adjustment and tightened everything down and went on to the next cylinder and set it up the same way and had the same thing going on...so I buttoned every thing back up and fired up fine and runs perfect with the added bonus of about 50 percent less twin cam music ...it is a 110 so I don't think that the noise will ever go away 100 percent...definitely doing some type of rocker lock this winter though to try and get some more of it ...but thanks for the help I appreciate it.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Granville New York
I went to 2 and 3 quarter turns...based on them being able to spin right away...I might go back and go 3 and a half to see if it quiets down even more. I was just afraid because everything I read said to absolutely wait for them to bleed down so when these spun right away I was thinking something wasnt right....ran great on my way to work today so hopefully all is good
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Granville New York
After a good hour of highway driving it sounds like the motor has gotten a little bit noisier than when I first started it...should I readjust after making sure the lifters are pumped up? If I do that and I wait for them to bleed down should I start the bike just for a few seconds to pump them up again on the next cylinder? Because wouldn't the lifters I'm not adjusting on the other cylinder bleed down while I was waiting for the ones I just adjusted to bleed down? I just want to make sure this is right and I have a feeling I'm a little bit out of adjustment right now...thanks for the help
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2011
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From: florida
What you could do first which is easiest is to give them all three-quarter more turn without collapsing them. One cylinder at a time of course being on the base circle. Then ride it a while and see how it sounds you could be good
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,148
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From: Banning, CA
As Scott said, 3.5 turns is correct for 24 tpi adjusters but I've ran into 32 tpi adjusters
which will require an additional turn. I also use lifter exhaust open / intake closing method
when adjusting rather than trying to find piston TDC. This insures you're on the base of
the cam lobe.
which will require an additional turn. I also use lifter exhaust open / intake closing method
when adjusting rather than trying to find piston TDC. This insures you're on the base of
the cam lobe.
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