I checked some of the sticky things and seen some discussion about rocker box gaskets but most are just arguments about what brand of gasket and torque spec debate, locktite debate,, all kinds of debates.

Im just wanting to know can the upper and lower rocker box gaskets be changed with ease on my bike with engine still in the bike?? Looks like even with tank and throttle body off the rear rocker box is going to be a PITA yeah royal one, to get. Front doesn't look bad but the rear looks like the frame with a plate is just above the rear rocker.

Some videos ive seen show the engine out of the bike well then it looks damn easy as pie. Don't want to pull engine,, share the knowledge please.

Can the rocker box gaskets upper and lower on the front and rear be changed with ease on my 05' Road King TC88,, I have a new kit from HD and looks like a lot more **** than just a couple gaskets. Like to get it right.

Noticed leak after having up on the table to replace the compensator,, really just retighten the nut that came loose. That's when I noticed some seeping at the rear of the rear head just above exhaust.

Thanks for any help! Been riding it she's fine and hasn't even been "losing" oil. Doing great after compensator was fixed.

 

It should be no problem just get a dog bone adapter for the top valve cover

 

You need to pull the fuel tank, but you don't need to pull the throttle body.. I would replace the pushrod tube O rings if they are in the kit.. It's a also a good idea to rebuild the head breathers and drill out the oil return while in there..

 

Even with the tank off, the R/R of the rear rocker support plate is a PITA; tight and requires some finagling to remove. I suppose each is different and factory tolerances may make one more difficult than another but that has been my experience. I would not bother to rebuild the breathers but simply replace them with the later stamped breathers PN 26500002. They come with shorter bolts and future R/R will be a snap. Pay attention to the placement of the lower rocker box gasket as they can be installed wrong and you will be revisiting them to correct. Easy to figure out but plenty have made the mistake. You won't be able to fit a torque wrench on all the fasteners so a torque adapter or "torque by feel" (the method I use) will have to be employed. I would also make an effort to put the pushrods back where they came from.

A manual would help but the basic process would involve removing both spark plugs, roll the motor over so both valves on the cylinder are at there lowest point, loosen the fasteners a little bit at a time until the bolts are all loose and you can remove the rocker support plate and breather and then the lower rocker box. Reverse the process for reassembly.

 

I have done mine on an 01 Road glide. I did have to drop the front motor mount a little to get one of the rear cover bolts all the way out.

 

I want to thank each brother for their reply,, you guys took the time to share and sharing is caring or some ****.

I guess I will be starting this job maybe this weekend,, big ride coming up in a month or so and would like to have this tightened up.. The dog bone adapter is what would allow me to torque the bolts I can't really get to right? I have always been a more of a "torque by feel" kinda guy,, broke many bolts in my younger days but have perfected this method now. So I say so anyways. I have a repair manual somewhere but it's like a Chiltons or Clymer,, wish I had an HD one.

I will also look into drilling out the oil return as mentioned? Heard someone else mention this may be worth doing while there.,, the more info I have the better. I usually make **** harder than it has to be,, didn't want to tear down and be stuck.. thanks again for the continued support from the best support group.

 

The HD manual is very good; if you can get your hands on one, do it. You should not have to drop the front motor mount to deal with the rear rocker cover. I have used a 2x4 between the rocker box and frame to push the rear of the motor down just enough to get the one or two fasteners to drop into their respective holes. I use a shop rag to protect the valve cover. On my personal bikes, I have changed to fasteners to 12 pt fasteners to I can get a box end wrench on the tough ones.

Torque by feel works just fine; no need for dog bone/torque adapters. Good luck with the project.

 

I use a double box end and fish scale for torquing..

 

Guess I would just have to see it,, this sounds awesome that never crossed my mind ever on any job,, that's outside the box brother. Damn genius or totally nuts lmao


Rock on! Ride hard!!