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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I'm no expert. But I feel like the amount of money you will spend paying someone else to change a cam and then retune would be better off saved up for either some additional headwork with that cam or going 107"/110"
I don't think a cam swap will get you where you want to be. The HO cam is pretty good with nice stage 1. Save your coin for another season.
That's what I'm wondering... can I get what I want with new cams (given that the ho cam is pretty good already), or do I need to fork out the money for a 110 kit.
Again, I'm happy with the power in the low range. But I want more oomph for uphills and from 70mph up...
I took kirby's advice and ran S&S 570 cams and .030 head gaskets. Also added S&S standard lifters and fuel Moto pushrods. Tuned with a power vision it dyno'd at 102/112. 14 streetglide special
Last edited by 2deuceguy; Aug 17, 2017 at 04:38 PM.
Stage 4 kit with pro tuner. Had it dynoed. Horrible riding no power like advertised.... cost just over 4 grand.
Hillside redid everything lots of torque now.
cost about the same.
Two totally different outcomes.. same money spent. On each kit.
one was tailored to me the other was tailored to the mass market.
Is "Hillside" someone on the forums here or a shop? Do you know what the difference was in parts? i.e. which cam did they use for stage 4 vs. on the second build? I'd presume the porting was ok from stage 4 huh? Throttle body OK? Pistons, rings, and pushrods OK?
That's what I'm wondering... can I get what I want with new cams (given that the ho cam is pretty good already), or do I need to fork out the money for a 110 kit. Again, I'm happy with the power in the low range. But I want more oomph for uphills and from 70mph up...
The HO cam is not that good; to use Scott's (Hillside Cycles) terminology, it is the SE255 with some profile tweaks but still a "school bus" cam and falls on it's face just about where you apparently want more guts, from 70mph up. Of course, you could downshift, grab some throttle and that problem could be solved; these TC motors like to spin. You want more "oomph" (read "torque") for the hills, which again could probably be solved with a downshift and some throttle.
JMHO but if your two issues are those described above, a 110 kit is overkill. A cam change that will keep the off idle torque but carry power out past 4500 is the ticket. Several options but the Andrews 48 would not be bad choice without any head work and more efficient use of the gear box. I would not bother with more displacement which leads to longer cams and headwork if funds are tight. JMHO
If you look at S&S cam spec sheet the 551 cam is to inprove 2k-4k torque and hp. This will give you better response when rolling on from a cruse speed. It will also help climbing hills.
Is "Hillside" someone on the forums here or a shop? Do you know what the difference was in parts? i.e. which cam did they use for stage 4 vs. on the second build? I'd presume the porting was ok from stage 4 huh? Throttle body OK? Pistons, rings, and pushrods OK?
I got the SE 585 cams with my stage 4.
Scott at Hillside a shop in New York, changed the cams to Andrews 57. Bored jugs to bring my cubes to 107. Re ported heads. Bigger intake valves. New lifters and pushrods. Little smoothing on the intake and throttle body.
Basically he refined all the "production tollerances" into a tighter and better performing package.
Yes Scott is here on the forums. There are a few really good shops on these forums...
There are also some very experienced people here.. listen to the path they help guide you on, and you will enjoy your changes.
Drop in a set of Andrews 48 cams, add fuel management if that was not included as part of your Stage I upgrade and get a proper dyno tune. Lifters aren't going to add to the gain but replacing them with a set of S&S Standards would be a good idea. Inner cam bearings should be upgraded to B168s as well. Check tensioners and replace if they look like they have taken a beating. Check crank run out while the cam chest is open for future reference.
Will that work with a Wethead 2016 Limited it has a little bit increased compression stock , like 10.2) ??
Will that work with a Wethead 2016 Limited it has a little bit increased compression stock , like 10.2) ??
Thanks
I would check compression before making a cam selection to verify the 10.2 static. I am not totally familiar with the wethead motor but have seen static advertised at 10:1, not 10.2:1. At 10.2 static, the Andrews 57, the Cycle-Rama 575 or even Tman's 600SM would be the smart choice in both situations.
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