Piston rings
i haven't seen a slotted oil ring in a while, they are extremely brittle and a lot break before it ever sees the land.
there are people that probably have what you need, google is nice.
but worst come to worst, if the diff isn't too much, have the land modified by a machine shop and worry no more.
you do know why they call them pans??? it is the thingy you set under it to recycle the oil. the only thing worst i have the honor of was a "k", noisey, leaks and lack luster performance.
Called Hastings, the gold oil ring (expander ring they call it) produces spring tension so that enough outward force is produced on all 3 rings to get a proper seal. There was too much tension not allowing me to squeeze all 3 rings to get the piston into the cylinder. They are shipping me 2 different rings that are .020 shorter which should remedy the issue. After inspecting the exapander ring while on the phone and seeing what she was explaining, I asked if I could just adjust the expander ring on my own where the 2 ends butt together and she strongly advised not to. She said that racers will do that but they conduct a drag test to ensure there is still proper tension and the same tension on each piston. The width and depth of my piston is correct for the ringset I bought so we ruled that issue out first. I also asked about proper installation and the wiper rings ("rails" as she calls them) and she confirmed that they DO in fact rest against the outward face of those little tabs on the expander ring. They do not rest above and below them like some illustrations online. Those tabs push on the back of the wiper rings and keep tension against the cylinder wall.
I was one that looked, but did not respond, at the time....
As Kirby has mentioned, dial bore guage to insure round/straight/proper clearence, THEN move forward.
Scott
If the home crosshatch is not correct it needs to be corrected and clearances checked for sure. Cylinder roundness and taper also.
I was one that looked, but did not respond, at the time....
As Kirby has mentioned, dial bore guage to insure round/straight/proper clearence, THEN move forward.
Scott
I am going to sacrifice the rings for a couple hundred miles if that, just to get this beast running. Will bore them and replace pistons at a later time. Now that I am familiar with this motor, pulling it apart again isnt an issue. Hardest part is gonna be breaking my back getting it in and out of the frame.








