Well it's true if you ask 5 people you'll get at least 6 opinions and few facts. Some people mistake new member for newbie which I am definitely not. I have spoken with well known builders from all over the nation and not one of them has tried to cut down my build. In fact some have thought it was a good 140/140 build and all of them agreed on the parts I selected for my application. Some had different personal preferences but still agreed that my choice will work fine. Professionalism is appreciated and fortunately I am able to smell the difference.

 

FWIW I am using a low profile lock up Scorpion with Barnett's billet clutch basket and I'm only making 125hp/121tq. It was a hydraulic conversion, 3 light and 3 medium springs and lever pull is easier than my 17 CVO street glide, clutch feel is much better too.

 

I like what you said here and there is a lot of truth to it as well. People on forums, especially those who tend to hang out in the performance sections of said forums tend to believe that when building an engine that it MUST BE BUILT for absolute max horsepower and or torque. As you have, I have also spoken to our nations best builders. I do not however let them force feed me a combination that I am not comfortable with. When I build an engine, reliability is always at the forefront, not power. It's like I bring it to the edge so I don't destroy it, perhaps I overbuild for its intended use. Rock on and I will following this thread and I hope that your build is everything that You want it to be.

 

I'm sure it will be. I did not go for max power either. I went for cool running longevity. The power naturally comes with the size of the engine. My expectations are not out of range. I went with a cam choice that will bring the Tq down to a usable rpm range. The rest is left alone just how S&S intended it to be. I've had belt snappers from over building the engine before. It's no fun when you're in the middle of nowhere showing off and you snap a belt. The stockers get a good laugh.

 

I thought I would join this forum to share experiences with others, that's what I thought this was. I've been riding for 36 years (yes, since 4 years old) and my father was an automotive mechanic for 45 years so I am familiar with how things work. After this build is complete I will post the dyno sheet, I expect people to pick that apart too as well as some will congratulate me then I will leave, go back to riding and enjoying my ride. Never needed this before and I don't know why I thought I needed it now. I have had some good hotrods in my life because I "research the hell out of everything" as my father used to put it. We always built fun stuff together. I tried a new type of research and learned a lesson. When I get my bike back you won't find me on the internet, you may however find me on the road.

 

Don't let anyone run you off Bro! This forum needs good people like yourself sharing your experiences. Trust me, your information helps a lot of people who are doing their own research. I don't think you're out of range. I got 141 ft-lbs of tourque and 130 HP from a crate S&S 124 with 585 cams and 10.25 compression with a D&D Boarzilla. So, I'm eager to see how the Dyno turns out for you!

As for your clutch, a VPC and the standard spring held just fine for me. However, I didn't want to push it long term and ended up switching the stock plates out for the Rekluse EXP 3.0 quasi automatic setup, which I love. It even came with basket tangs to protect the stock basket from damage. I am using the VPC and a heavy Duty SE Spring with the Rekluse and it's been fantastic. If you go Barnett, you will be happy, just spring it right so that the pull is not crazy and do yourself a big favor and change the clutch basket at the same time. Doing so will save you a potential headache down the road. My Belt has been holding just fine and I'm a fairly aggressive rider. I may do the chain conversion at some point, but nothing is indicating I need to do it now. One other suggestion, your stock compensator will not hold up to the power over time. I deleted my compensating sprocket and went with a solid gear and it's been great. Not jerky at all like some will make you believe. I though about a baker compensator and the guys at baker were very honest with me and told me that their compensator will not fare well with a 124. Looking forward to seeing your results. Again, good luck!

 

Thanks Vision! The Rivera Primo Game Changer has a solid engine sprocket which is what I am using. As for power output I'll just see what happens. A complete lockup clutch kit with basket is on my list but for now I have the VP95IV with 380# spring rated to hold up to 160 lb/ft tq which my builder says will work fine but I probably will change it out later.

 

Sounds like you have a real solid build and I'm sure it will do everything you want it to.

Just keep in mind, 136, SAE with modern DJ software, with all run conditions and no games (they are out there big time) is 136. Might as well say 130, as it ain't 140-no matter how much you wish it to be, it won't come true (unless you go to a BS Dyno specialist)....In which case, just name your number, and the "operator" will make that # amazingly appear-as long as you open your wallet.
Being on hundreds of pulls on just about every type of Dyno, trust me, a legit DJ number, will allow you to roll up on any Dyno, and any time with confidence, run close to your mark, and many times MORE-with zero fear of getting embarrassed at another shop or in front of a crowd, "he said his bike should make 140, and it actually makes 128! Lol!!!" You think good news travels fast, just wait and see how fast bad news travels. Have many sad but funny stories, but that's a subject for another day...
Or, a guy with "inflated" numbers will never roll on another Dyno (I have seen this on forums for years-guys pull an "amazing" number, but never, ever repeat it anywhere else. Wonder why? Lol).

Not sure if you understood the clutch comment, as I have run them all.
1.
The stock, no LU Barnett Scorpion is solid to 130, maybe 135.
2.
You can add their Barnett under derby cover LU (cheaper than a complete Bandit with basket--don't go cheap here and do a search about late model stock baskets gong to hell--which is 1,300 plus for a full super clutch. The Barnett with undercover LU should hold 150-200, provided you use the correct fluid and set it up with the right springs. Since you already have the Scorpion, this is what I would do.....$ vs. need.

That said, I do love me some Bandit!



"Well Paul.. A legit DJ dyno is and oxymoron. "
Yeah Max, kinda like Jumbo Shrimp, unless you go to a pro who actually uses his Dyno to test stuff, keeps his drum and software up to date, and you are fortunate to hop on for your own real world, no BS results. Not a guy who uses his Dyno to make $$$$.
Warning to number chasers.....this can be a heartbreaking "reality check", but at least you know where you stand....

 

What part of "around" don't you understand? If you've been paying attention Vision said his 124LC put down 141tq. Is that close enough to be considered around 140 to your standards. And I never said I have a Scorpion clutch either. I said I'll keep one on my list. I'm not the one getting all butt hurt about numbers nor am I chasing numbers. If I was I would be taking a completely different route altogether. I'm sorry I mentioned any number at all. I'll just shoot for 1hp/1tq. Maybe just maybe I'll make that number with the right parts combination. Does that make you feel better?