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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Just out of curiosity, when you are making your PR presets are you going to base circle on each cylinder and then allowing the full lockdown BEFORE the adjustment or are you just adjusting and praying that it is well?
Before setting the preload, the PR's were adjusted to zero lash, if I understood correct your question. If not, could you please reformulate, sorry, I'm not English native speaker.
That answers the base circle question but what about full bleed down of the lifters, adjust until they are stiff then let them bleed down, repeat until they remain stiff then slacken enough that you can only just rotate them by hand.
each lifter has to be on the base circle of the cam, not the lobe BEFORE you adjust the pushrod. rotate the engine with a finger on the lifter or watch the rods as they go up on the lobe, then come down. you can do each one individually, I do them in pairs myself, rotate the engine untill they both go up then down,turn it abit more till it starts to go up again, the go back untill its all the way down, then adjust. 10-15 minutes for them to bleed down, with out rotating the engine. when you can grab each one with your fingers and spin them, they are bled down, then you can move on to the next.
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The PR's were set exactly as you guys described, on a base circle cam (not on lobe), piston at TDC. First set at zero lash, then adjusted the preload, then waited until we could rotate the PR's easy by hand.
My friend did also the compresion test, both cylinders shows the same value, about 155 PSI.
For adjustable PRs you need to bleed more than once per cylinder just to measure that it 8s bled all the way down, otherwise you may have halfway bled lifters and wind up with some slop in your PRs which would cause valves to only be partially open causing the symptoms that you initially described. You only need to bleed once for stock rods.
For adjustable PRs you need to bleed more than once per cylinder just to measure that it 8s bled all the way down, otherwise you may have halfway bled lifters and wind up with some slop in your PRs which would cause valves to only be partially open causing the symptoms that you initially described. You only need to bleed once for stock rods.
How to do ?
After the 1st bleeding, means the PR's are rotating easy by hand, what to do next ? Rotate one turn the crank and check again if the PR's could be rotated by hand (of course, base circle cam, TDC) ?
How to do ?
After the 1st bleeding, means the PR's are rotating easy by hand, what to do next ? Rotate one turn the crank and check again if the PR's could be rotated by hand (of course, base circle cam, TDC) ?
Not sure of 1st and second bleeding.
Sounds like you set them properly. cam lobe on base, set to zero lash then the preload of .120"-.140". Lock it down and good to go...
PR's put pressure on the lifters causing them to bleed down, with adjustable PR's you don't get the same pressure with the initial bleed down so, adjust until stiff then bleed down. DO NOT rotate engine over but then adjust until stiff again then wait for bleed down until it no longer goes slack then adjust back until just slack.
The procedure that you are describing takes away the hydraulic function of the lifter, effectively converting it into a solid lifter with no hydraulic adjustment capability. If you were claying up an engine to check internal clearances, that would be one thing. In this instance it it not necessary OR adviseable to do this as it wont yield any worthwhile diagnostic input.
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