S&s adjustable pushrods

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Jul 25, 2018 | 08:48 PM

#11

Uncle Salty

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Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 72

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From: NW Louisiana

Quote:

Originally Posted by djl

OP, all the others are saying is that you provide way too much information in your posts. If you want help adjusting pushrods, all you need do is ask for help adjusting pushrods. No one is interested in the drama and backstory; we all have enough or our own to deal with. You could also use some help with sentence structure and thought organization.

Couldn't have said it better.

Jul 28, 2018 | 07:32 AM

#12

Madnss

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Joined: Dec 2012

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From: river

Jul 30, 2018 | 10:45 PM

#13

martinj

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Joined: Mar 2016

Posts: 11,688

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From: Clearwater, Idaho

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madnss

<snip>

Well, that was really helpful.....

Jul 31, 2018 | 02:05 AM

#14

TOMMYBLAZIN

Thread Starter

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Joined: Aug 2016

Posts: 940

Likes: 43

From: BERGEN COUNTY N.J.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROCKOUT Rocker Products

Doesn't matter which cylinder you start with, and rotating the rear wheel both directions is fine.

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For ROCKOUT information & purchasing please click HERE For all Twin Cams and Evo Big Twins & Sportsters

Can I adjust Both Intake & Exaist, on SAME cylinder?

when pushrods are on base circle? or say I do intake, let bleed down, find base circle again?

for other pushrod/in same cylinder, than move to other cylinder

as o dont want to bend any valves again, etc...

I read you have to do again?

seems excessive?

Thanks for contributing . to a fellow brother in need... I'm stuck here, in garage,

I Bought Both the electrical/shop manual, and tips here and there, I have it all 100% right, minus top end...

not worried about the pistons, and jugs

as Hillside going to be me a 117" or more next year...

And Dark Horse, doing a Bucket proof lower end

I grabbed a Baker Grudge Box from buddy, great price,

So i have that area covered next year..

I just would like to Drive & feel

Hillside"s 107ci , the way it was built!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by QC

Shouldn't change it. Is how I've done it as well. If p-rods are out, you can look into lifter bores and when they both stop moving at the same time, you're there.

Do You Or Anyone On Here, Know Where I can buy one of those cheater whistlers that let you know your one the power stroke??

Hear They Work Good

ill wait for both f/r tappetsTo Be at lowest point <the cam. un adjusting >

the outside one goes up and down,

At that point is on compression stroke, and use a straw to find tdc.

I have this thread in TSC tool, but spins so fast, and im doing by myself here'/Thanks..

Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Jul 31, 2018 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Multiple posts

Jul 31, 2018 | 06:12 AM

#15

BigT12

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Joined: Feb 2016

Posts: 184

Likes: 90

From: Connecticut

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOMMYBLAZIN

You look for the inside pushrods (intake) to go up then back down not the outside, you have the spark plugs out while doing this process and I normally stick a long plastic tie wrap into the cylinder that I’m adjusting the pushrods on and feel for the piston to come up to top dead center. You then adjust both pushrods for that cylinder. As soon as you are able to turn both pushrods you can move spin the motor over to do the other two pushrods.

Jul 31, 2018 | 06:54 AM

#16

ROCKOUT Rocker Products

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Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 8,538

Likes: 1,646

From: SF Bay area

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOMMYBLAZIN

No need to find base circle twice on the same cylinder.... once there do both intake and exhaust

__________________________________________________ ____
For ROCKOUT information & purchasing please click HERE For all Twin Cams and Evo Big Twins & Sportsters

__________________

NO, they DON'T all do that!

ROCKOUT rocker shaft inserts... make the tapping STOP! From the guy that FOUND and CURED the problem NO ONE ELSE COULD, thank you for your support!
Ordering & info http://www.rockout.biz On ebay! ... CLICK HERE
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Imitated, never equaled... ROCKOUTS!

Jul 31, 2018 | 10:36 AM

#17

Fat11Lo

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Mar 2012

Posts: 2,019

Likes: 599

From: Columbus, OH

Tommy, I've been around this forum for a while and I'm far from a troll. Heck I'm reluctant to even read your threads let alone comment on them. But just for fun let me give you some advice. What you give is what you get on this site, what I mean is you continually post a total **** show when you ask questions. You come on here with all of the back story drama, blame thrower in hand and then name drop every chance you get. You throw anyone you can under the bus and then insult people who have the experience to help you. You're like a bad accident, I don't want to look but can't help wonder what the heck is going on.

It's obvious to me that since you were on here before with all of the same questions, that this procedure is out of the range of your abilities. No insult intended there, we all have different gifts and judging from your posts and behaviour over the last couple of years, engine work is not in your wheelhouse. It's ok, I know you have been burned by one shop but that's no reason to not find another, however if you came into my shop acting like you do here I would ask you to leave and not come back. Have you paid attention to how others ask for help around here? Have you seen ANYBODY act like you and get good results? Patience is key to doing any mechanical work, taking the time to understand what you're doing and then systematically executing the task. I picture you in your garage trying to work on your bike in the same way you post on here and it's no wonder you have complications. You must have a calm clear head when you're doing technical work or you will get poor results.

Just my opinion

Jul 31, 2018 | 10:44 PM

#18

IKnowNot

Road Master

Joined: May 2012

Posts: 773

Likes: 124

From: Between purgatory and retirement

You didn't finish this yet?

Tommy,

Just put it on a jack, pull the plugs, put it in high gear.

Remove all the pushrods and covers, roll the rods on a known flat surface to make sure they didn’t get bent.

The rods should be marked, but if not, as stated above, the long for the exhaust, the short for the intake.

Put your fingers on the front cylinder lifters and rotate the rear wheel until you fell both the front lifters moving at once. One should be moving up, the other down. You may not find it on just one cycle, just keep trying until you know you feel it.

Install the rear intake pushrod and adjust. (Do not close up pushrod tubes yet!)

Here is the hard part … you have E-Z start cams.

You can use your finger or loosely install the rear exhaust pushrod, mark it and watch it (don’t forget to listen for the click), but you need to find where the lifter just comes off the tab on the cam. You should not have to move the rear wheel much at all … only inches back and forth if that, which should keep the intake on the base circle so you don’t have to worry yet about bleed-down.

Once you know you you are on the base circle but not on that tab you can install the rear exhaust pushrod and do your adjustment.

Now you worry about bleed-down. Wait until you can spin both with your fingers, then move to the front.

This time you will have to look at the rear pushrods as you turn your rear tire.
When both rear pushrods are moving at the same time, you are on your base circle for the front.

Follow the same procedure as before, install the intake pushrod, then make sure you are just off the tab before installing the exhaust.

You did remember to install the pushrod tubes and o-rings, didn’t you?

Also, I use a small flashlight and mirror to make sure the o-rings seat properly when buttoning up the pushrod tubes.
.