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1340 EVO Adj Pushrod hitting the cover

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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 02:09 PM
  #31  
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93 Mooglide, I've been researching this topic as I'm about to replace my lifters and pushrods. Had a slightly bent sneakable pushrod and Kinglide was generous enough to give me a replacement to get me through the riding season. Now that the weather has gone to crap it's time to do the work. I went with S+S quickie pushrods and Hylift Johnson lifters, replacing a set of Jims lifters with 50k on them and a goofy collection of 3 different brands of pushrods. I also have Screaming Eagle heads and and SE 57 cam, SE/Jims roller rockers which supposedly offer better geometry. What I found interesting is in the instructions that came with the S+S pushrods it includes a diagram that tells you how much to CUT OFF the bottom of the inner push rod tube to PREVENT interference between the pushrod and inner tube. My rear exhaust and front exhaust have always had a very minor bit of rubbing, none of the other brands of pushrods I've used have ever recommended trimming the inner tube. Going to do this trimming when I install the new lifters and pushrods, maybe it would help your noise too.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2018 | 09:05 AM
  #32  
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Bentparts, Thank you for the info. Sounds like you've put a lot of work into the motor. I'm running pretty much stock with an EV27 cam, HD "B" lifters, upgraded exhaust, air cleaner and carb re-jet. Nothing fancy, but it makes me smile when I twist the throttle... If my front exhaust pushrod ticking reappears I may give modifying the pushrod cover a go, but after the last "readjustment" of the cover it's still quiet. I admit it's an "iffy" fix, but so far it's working. Good luck on your upgrades. I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know if the recommended pushrod cover modification by S&S solves the interference problem.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 02:25 PM
  #33  
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Back in the day, boring the top and bottom of the pushrod tubes to eliminate the crimped shoulder that reduces the ID of the tube at the top and bottom was done to provide more room a those two points of the pushrod travel to eliminate contact between the pushrod and tube. Findind a machine shop to do the boring is cheap and quick as DIY fixes usually resulted in trashed tubes or injury. However, I did see one DIY approach used that made some sense. The guy used uni bits in a hand drill at low rpms and reamed out the crimped area. Understanding the pushrods have to be removed for the DIY fix, replacing with OEM hardware or a custom set of fixed length pushrods would be the better way to go.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 02:22 PM
  #34  
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Attachment 619422

Attachment 619423

I did my twin cam tubes with a 5/8" reamer I use for truck frame work in a drill press

Just went slow and let the tool do the work

Don't know what size you would need for an evo, but this style reamer comes in many sizes
 
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Fat11Lo
I did my twin cam tubes with a 5/8" reamer I use for truck frame work in a drill press. Just went slow and let the tool do the work. Don't know what size you would need for an evo, but this style reamer comes in many sizes
Same size for the Evo. What did you use to hold the tube? I found that to be the hardest part.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 06:09 PM
  #36  
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Default tube reaming

Originally Posted by djl
Same size for the Evo. What did you use to hold the tube? I found that to be the hardest part.
Good question, I would like to know too.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 10:00 AM
  #37  
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with the drill press I just used my left hand to hold the tube

square the deck before starting

slow and steady pressure let the reamer do the work, it will get warm take breaks to let it cool

The unibit scares the hell out of me seems like it would want to catch easy, this type of reamer makes better contact and the taper is gradual, see how smooth the finished tube is compared to one of the previous pics
 
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 10:23 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Fat11Lo
with the drill press I just used my left hand to hold the tube, square the deck before starting. slow and steady pressure let the reamer do the work, it will get warm take breaks to let it cool

The unibit scares the hell out of me seems like it would want to catch easy, this type of reamer makes better contact and the taper is gradual, see how smooth the finished tube is compared to one of the previous pics
Agreed, the uni bit is touchy which is why I was asking the question. Welder, air compressor, hydraulic press, table lift but no drill press here although I have been thinking about getting one so I will have to come up with a work around.
 

Last edited by djl; Nov 8, 2018 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
Agreed, the uni bit is touchy which is why I was asking the question. Welder, air compressor, hydraulic press, table lift but no drill press here although I have been thinking about getting one so I will have to come up with a work around.
A small table top drill press is a very handy tool, mine is just a cheap one but it gets the job done.

Split some hose and put your drill in the vise then just work the tube a little at a time, that's if your drill has a trigger lock
 

Last edited by Fat11Lo; Nov 8, 2018 at 03:40 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Fat11Lo
A small table top drill press is a very handy tool, mine is just a cheap one but it gets the job done. Split some hose and put your drill in the vise then just work the tube a little at a time, that's if your drill has a trigger lock
That was going to be my work around but I will take a look at a table top drill press. Portable and I can stow it until needed and won't take up valuable real estate on the bench.
 
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