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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Would be nice to know what bike we're talking about tho, and what specifically caused this "flaw in cylinder wall"
'17 CVO SG - Stage I SE
I'm not sure what caused it. I bought the bike used about 4 months or so ago. It had 6500 miles. When I brought in for 10k service, they discovered oil fouling the plugs and said they'd get back with me when they figure out what the issue is They called yesterday and said they found something on the cylinder wall that was allowing a small amount of oil to creep where it shouldn't go.
This has me a bit sketched, as HD is new to me. I've been a beemer owner in the past. I asked the tech for honesty when I asked him "Is there ANYTHING I could have done to cause this?" He said he couldn't think of any operating error, habit, or otherwise that could cause a small indentation on the cylinder wall. I drive like an old man about 99% of the time. Every once in a while, I open up the throttle on the highway to clean out the carburetors a bit. :P Other than that, this was my dream bike. My intentions were to enjoy it as long as I could by taking great care of it.
Also, to be clear.....were you answering yes to both questions? Yes break in period and yes 1000 mile maintenance?
To be more clear, yes I was answering your question about the new break in, but let me clarify something.
When you break in a new engine you're not just seating rings. You're mating all the surfaces that come in contact with each other. With all your miles that's done, but now that you've got some new cylinders and pistons you've got those to break in again.
I'd go 50 miles easy, then another 200 moderately at varying RPM's but staying under 3500 and 80 mph, then open her up easy style increasingly aggressive over the next 250. Then change the oil at 500 and run it normally.
Nm...got many answers. I have job to do for the first 1000 miles. Lots of opinions out there on break in protocols.
The only opinion that matters is the dealer's break in procedure required to maintain the warranty. I expect the dealer will not wait 1000 miles for first service, more like 500 and the dealer will change oil and filter. If the dealer has a dyno (some do) they can seat the rings on the dyno which is the most important phase of the break in procedure; the rings should be seated in the first 25-50 miles if done properly. I have seated rings on a dyno and gone right into dyno tuning with WOT pulls.
The only opinion that matters is the dealer's break in procedure required to maintain the warranty. I expect the dealer will not wait 1000 miles for first service, more like 500 and the dealer will change oil and filter. If the dealer has a dyno (some do) they can seat the rings on the dyno which is the most important phase of the break in procedure; the rings should be seated in the first 25-50 miles if done properly. I have seated rings on a dyno and gone right into dyno tuning with WOT pulls.
I like the idea of the dealer seating the rings. Thanks for posting. I plan on working with my dealer.
I like to break the rings in hard. Rev it threw the gears then coast over and over, each time gaining a few rpm's. First doing a couple heat cycles. Then change oil at 200 miles. Did my bike almost 60,000 miles ago, still no blow by. Also broke in two sleds last winter the same way. Getting ready to break in a 350 Chevy rebuild soon
Last edited by xcbullet; Aug 18, 2019 at 07:51 PM.
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