Hello everyone!

I tried to post this yesterday but I am not sure what happened. I don't see pending posts anywhere so I am trying again.This is my first post on the forum.

I may finally be upgrading to my first Harley!

I actively scan craigslist for good deals on bikes and have been looking for a good deal on a Harley. I came across a local add from a guy selling a 2004 Harley Davidson Sportster 883 that was "converted to 1200 with Buell cylinders". He has it listed at $2000 because it "needs engine work".

Now, I have experience ripping apart old Honda CB motors.I have taken apart a CB650 engine and crankcase so I have some experience working with motorcycle engines but I know Harley's are a different beast.

I talked to him a little bit about what he thinks is wrong with it. He says that however long ago he started to hear a knock in the engine and then it simply stopped cranking over. I asked him if it is seized and he said "probably". Since he said "probably" I am at least assuming that it didn't seize while it was running otherwise it would have been a solid "yes".

He says it could be something with a push rod? Looking into how push rods work in Harley engines I cant imagine that could cause an engine not to crank over. He says he is not mechanically inclined but he is 95% sure it is in the top end.

I was able to talk him down to $1000 for the bike after telling him how it has been my dream to own a Harley and how I need to be prepared for unexpected cost while repairing the engine.

Here is a picture of the bike:

And here is the original ad text:
"Titled as an 883 it was converted to 1200 with Buell cylinders. It needs $500-1500 (work depending on who does it). 19,3435 miles (15k on the cylinders). 1500 miles on the tires. Garage kept no leaks. I’d keep it and have it repaired except my friend and mechanic passed away. It’s worth more in parts.
Includes:
1. Twintec electronic Ignition module
2. Supertrap Exhaust
3. Windshield
4. 2up seat
5. Backrest
6. Luggage Rack"

What do you guys think? Is it worth it to take the risk on the repair? I know that I pretty much have to be willing to "burn" $1000 if the engine is totaled.
Is this "converted to 1200 with Buell cylinders" something to be concerned about? Is converting the engine to this something that causes catastrophic engine failures?
What kinda of cost should I expect for special tools needed to rip apart a Harley motors top end?

I am excited to hear from the people on this forum. After finding this forum and reading around a bit, I feel like I am becoming apart of an awesome community. If I do get the bike, I plan on starting a thread so I can ask for help in diagnosing the problem and document the repairs with your guys insight.

Thank you for your time, consideration, and wisdom.

 

You can remove and rebuild a Harley top end with a general mechanics set of tools (SAE socket set, Allen sockets, a few different sizes of Torx, wrenches) . Several things, such as a piston ring compressor of the right size, and the odd 12-point socket are necessary, but otherwise pretty straightforward. Generally, these engines have been very good in terms of reliability and longevity, that being said, it seems like when they are making 'bad' noises, it seems like it's a flywheel/connecting rod issue, but 'bad' is subjective. Saying $500-$1500 worth of work quote may be light, but if you can get a manual, and read it (Harley service manuals really are some of the most thorough you will find if you read through them), there's no reason you couldn't make this a project for yourself. Maybe pay someone to do things that require special tools, like pressing case bearings and such, instead of attempting anything hillbilly that ends up costing you more. In terms of them being Buell cylinders, that wouldn't make any difference mechanically, they were just solid black wrinkle, without the cut-back fin edges, otherwise standard dimension to any other XL 1200 engine. NADA range is $1500 low, to $2000 high, so $2000 is on the high end, given the amount of potential repair needed. Everyone accessorizes their bikes, NADA values incorporate this into the values over time, so unless it's exactly what you want, and you're interested in a project, I'd lowball it at $1000 and see what he says.

 

He has accepted the $1000 dollar offer. I guess what would some of you more experienced Harley mechanics do for a deal like this? Is the bike, being a Sportster, not worth the potential basket case or do you think that it is a good deal?

 

$1000 not a lot of money for a Harley

Bring it home take it apart and learn something

 

+1. Be a good learning experience and for $1000 you did good.
Get with Hammer Performance once you figure out what's wrong and what direction you want to go.

 

Take the top end apart, and see what you've got. My only tip, would be before you just go rip the cylinders away from the pistons, stuff a clean rag around the connecting rods into the case, this will prevent possibly broken piston ring bits from falling in, and fouling your crankcase/flywheels. Make sure you organize, and label everything, since you won't know by experience where everything goes.Take a ton of cell phone pictures before you start, and as you work through it, being able to reference a 'before' picture can be invaluable. Also, this cart from Harbor Freight is a perfect size to be able to hold, and keep parts organized from top end jobs (and anything else), without having to relocate them multiple times. We have a dozen of them at our dealership, we even mark a center line, and label 'front' and 'rear', just so you can keep all of the parts together that came apart. Some have been around 20 years in a professional shop environment.

 

Awesome guys! Thank you! I am picking up the bike tonight. I think I will just use this thread as the build thread. I have been watching this video to help prepare me for the top end take apart: This guy has the engine out of the frame for the top end tear down. Will I need to take the engine out of the frame? Also, notice how he moves the piston to top dead center on compression stroke so there is less pressure on the valve springs. If I cant move the engine should I be super concerned about not getting top dead center on compression stroke when removing that section? That part starts at 7:35 minutes in to the video.

 

No, you don't need to remove engine, although I think because he appears to be working on a Buell, he's had to remove the front frame section to be able to disassemble, not necessary on a Sportster (although some rocker screws/bolts will be tight to access, they can be removed). In terms of finding TDC, you just don't want to remove the lower rocker cover, and in turn, the rocker arms, with load on the pushrods. Just jack up rear wheel, remove spark plugs, put it in 5th gear, and rotate until the rocker arms on the cylinder you're working on are loose. One tip, removing the cam cover (right side of engine) will likely result in the cams falling out, as they are supported in the crankcase and the cover. Reinstalling them requires re-timing them, not the end of the world, but something to be aware of. It is possible to get cover off without losing them, just have to be aware of it, should you choose to/need to go that far.

Most importantly, order a Service Manual, from Harley, today. Aftermarket manuals are no comparison to the factory manuals, in particular when you're going this deep.

 

I'm not 100% sure on a Sportster, but if it has "rod bearings" like a car ,and if one "spun" yes it would knock,then the "big end " of the rod would break and the engine would "sieze" another thing ,which is a possibilty if the engine was apart is a "wrist pin" problem at the small end of the rod at the piston. so there are two kinds of rods, ones with rod bearings,and those that are machined with no rod bearings, at the big end, im not sure how Sporties are set up. i also would be prepared for anything when you take it apart,meaning $500-100 worth of work may be way off...