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Vented dipsticks / crankcase breathers

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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 09:49 AM
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Default Vented dipsticks / crankcase breathers

Feuling - $280 - https://www.feulingparts.com/sku/3092

A1 Cycles - $90 - https://www.a1cycles.net/new-product...e-black-finish

What am I missing, why is the Feuling unit triple the price?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 12:22 PM
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One has an integrated dip stick and one way flapper valve
 
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ntraindavefl
One has an integrated dip stick and one way flapper valve
I noticed that A1 claims a flapper valve is not optimal because you want the motor/crankcase to be able to push and pull air....
 
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 05:13 PM
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I have had the a1 for several months. Seems to makes sense to vent the crank case. Interested to see if some of the really good engine guys chime in.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by twincam10353
Feuling - $280 - https://www.feulingparts.com/sku/3092

A1 Cycles - $90 - https://www.a1cycles.net/new-product...e-black-finish

What am I missing, why is the Feuling unit triple the price?
Hell, both of those prices are absurd.

Junk you don`t need.

Here`s an idea, just use the dipstick that came with the bike and keep the money in your pocket...
 
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by twincam10353
I noticed that A1 claims a flapper valve is not optimal because you want the motor/crankcase to be able to push and pull air....
No you dont. Not unless you want to build excessive crankcase pressure. It's also a cause of ring flutter.That's why the stock breathers are one way valves. Not very good ones but then neither are the ones you reference.
Ideally you want to maintain a slight negative pressure under the pistons. What you dont want is them fighting against pressure on the downstroke and the one way valve is there to expel the pressure they cause on downstroke, then close at the first sign of air being sucked backed in on upstroke.
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; Nov 5, 2020 at 08:00 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
No you dont. Not unless you want to build excessive crankcase pressure. It's also a cause of ring flutter.That's why the stock breathers are one way valves. Not very good ones but then neither are the ones you reference.
Ideally you want to maintain a slight negative pressure under the pistons. What you dont want is them fighting against pressure on the downstroke and the one way valve is there to expel the pressure they cause on downstroke, then close at the first sign of air being sucked backed in on upstroke.
Now that's hilarious. First off you don't maintain negative pressure. At near BDC both pistons there is positive pressure or the valve won't do anything.

Went you say fighting against pressure on the down stoke, if the pressure in the cylinder is less than the pressure in the crankcase, won't the motor stop running?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2020 | 06:45 AM
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Let’s all remember how fast these pistons are moving. Any style of venting is just allowing excess pressure out. HD went to a screw in dipstick for the very reason of excess pressure blowing out their older press in dipstick. Big motors create even more in the case. I’m not sure which unit is better (one way valve or none) but IIRC Tman’s set up drills the fill neck and runs a line wout a valve. As long as you don’t hang the vent line out in the wind I would expect you’d be just fine but I’m no expert
 
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Old Nov 15, 2020 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Now that's hilarious. First off you don't maintain negative pressure. At near BDC both pistons there is positive pressure or the valve won't do anything.

Went you say fighting against pressure on the down stoke, if the pressure in the cylinder is less than the pressure in the crankcase, won't the motor stop running?
Pretty simple concept really. There's no benefit to introducing more crankcase pressure by sucking air back in. The pressure, or in this case lack thereof, is maintained thru out. Not just the cylinders. The cylinders is where it originates. One would also think venting closer to the origin would be best.
I know of a few that have vented into the head pipes using the exhaust pulses to aid in the process.
https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/quick...essure-part-1/
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; Nov 15, 2020 at 03:08 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 06:32 PM
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Mine is a twin cam, and TR’s kit is for M8’s, but basically we all run the same venting stuff we learned from land speed hi rpm pressures for extended periods of time, and or, extreme CC pressure in super hi comp drag racing. If you have a stock or near stock bike, simply run a quart low and leave it as it is. All good.
if you have a built motor, higher comp, more cubes, love to spin it up, race your buddies, occasionally go to the track, Or all of the above, one way venting is your friend. I run a pretty complicated one way check valve system with two catch cans on my street bike, and it’s overkill for most, but my motor stays together under hard core abuse, doesn’t sump, leak, smoke, blow dipsticks, or any other BS.
Several ways to accomplish relieving pressure, but yes, the stock 60 HP HD system is terrible at relieving this higher pressure, and if you have followed the MOCO’s Lame efforts over many years to reduce this pressure, and attempt to move oil and air pressure efficiently (umbrella valves for example), and their trying to eliminate sumping, you already know this.
Again, if your idea of riding is a trip to Starbucks, or running on the slab at 2,200, leave as is.....
 
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