Boring Cylinders to 98"
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 599
From: Columbus, OH
I'll take it for what it's worth, Pure Hybrid is correct about proper sample techniques. but that wasn't possible in your situation.
The water doesn't bother me, it's not off the charts and temperature fluctuation will cause condensation, how long has the top end been apart and how much has temp changed since then? If you are heating your work space and then letting it cool to sub freezing temps.......
If it were mine I would clean out best you can, having the cylinders off at this point is a big plus, I would flush the case with a solvent of choice and start sourcing parts to put it back together
As an aftercare plan I would change the oil + filter frequently at first and sample as you do, educate yourself on proper sample technique and track your results as long as your numbers stay good you're in the clear and you will have a baseline of what's normal for your engine
The water doesn't bother me, it's not off the charts and temperature fluctuation will cause condensation, how long has the top end been apart and how much has temp changed since then? If you are heating your work space and then letting it cool to sub freezing temps.......
If it were mine I would clean out best you can, having the cylinders off at this point is a big plus, I would flush the case with a solvent of choice and start sourcing parts to put it back together
As an aftercare plan I would change the oil + filter frequently at first and sample as you do, educate yourself on proper sample technique and track your results as long as your numbers stay good you're in the clear and you will have a baseline of what's normal for your engine
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 376
Likes: 27
From: Ontario
I'll take it for what it's worth, Pure Hybrid is correct about proper sample techniques. but that wasn't possible in your situation.
The water doesn't bother me, it's not off the charts and temperature fluctuation will cause condensation, how long has the top end been apart and how much has temp changed since then? If you are heating your work space and then letting it cool to sub freezing temps.......
If it were mine I would clean out best you can, having the cylinders off at this point is a big plus, I would flush the case with a solvent of choice and start sourcing parts to put it back together
As an aftercare plan I would change the oil + filter frequently at first and sample as you do, educate yourself on proper sample technique and track your results as long as your numbers stay good you're in the clear and you will have a baseline of what's normal for your engine
The water doesn't bother me, it's not off the charts and temperature fluctuation will cause condensation, how long has the top end been apart and how much has temp changed since then? If you are heating your work space and then letting it cool to sub freezing temps.......
If it were mine I would clean out best you can, having the cylinders off at this point is a big plus, I would flush the case with a solvent of choice and start sourcing parts to put it back together
As an aftercare plan I would change the oil + filter frequently at first and sample as you do, educate yourself on proper sample technique and track your results as long as your numbers stay good you're in the clear and you will have a baseline of what's normal for your engine
Since late December
Yes I will flush it out...do a few oil changes for sure
And def will monitor it.
Everyone's help has been much appreciated and extremely helpful
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 376
Likes: 27
From: Ontario
Update, Update, Update!!!
Hi just wanted to throw an update out there. Been a while.
Sorry for repeatative questions ...sometimes I get the assurity bug and I know it's annoying
Anyways
So all in all....I needed a crank .. I was able to source a rebuilt crank for my model with the double taper Timken bearing, S&S pin, plugged, welded and trued.
I had noticed way to much play in the front connector rod and didn't want to chance it
The shop installing my new crank messaged and said my old crank was shot...the inner pinion race was spinning and the crank was not rebuildable in the future.
Told him I wanted back anyway as shop decor.
I decided to pull oil pan and clean. Absolutely no debris air anything in their...was happy to see this.
I should have the build done withing a week and will post
Had to send Daytona twin tech back. Wasn't working...another on its way.
Thank to everyone who chimed in to help.
Very much appreciated
Hi just wanted to throw an update out there. Been a while.
Sorry for repeatative questions ...sometimes I get the assurity bug and I know it's annoying
Anyways
So all in all....I needed a crank .. I was able to source a rebuilt crank for my model with the double taper Timken bearing, S&S pin, plugged, welded and trued.
I had noticed way to much play in the front connector rod and didn't want to chance it
The shop installing my new crank messaged and said my old crank was shot...the inner pinion race was spinning and the crank was not rebuildable in the future.
Told him I wanted back anyway as shop decor.
I decided to pull oil pan and clean. Absolutely no debris air anything in their...was happy to see this.
I should have the build done withing a week and will post
Had to send Daytona twin tech back. Wasn't working...another on its way.
Thank to everyone who chimed in to help.
Very much appreciated
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