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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Got one good cylinder today. Will setup to do 2 more. On extra in case I screw up again.
This one came out much better. The cylinder is gummy and leaves fuzz on the inside. Cleaning it with 240 grit make the measurements much better. Before aluminum fuzz was sticking to the gages and creating an error. Had to clean them off. I changed to a 1 inch boring bar with inserts set up for final cuts in the aluminum with a smaller nose radius.
You can see the breaking through the case Iron liner, different than the SnS cylinder.
I was told by the carbide insert people that the finish in you cylinder was caused by the material welding on the tip of the insert.
More coolant and surface speed helps but out of the question for that setup. A sharp with just a small radius hand ground MoMax high speed steel tool in a slotted steel bar maybe.
I'm not into big cu. In. Are you trying to produce something you can't buy commercially?
Am enjoying this thread however. Spent 46 years in that world from machines smaller then yours to those bigger then houses.
Best friend has a 1936 Harley. Still working there. He finishes the propeller shafting on the carriers. Still done with high speed tool steel.
I was told by the carbide insert people that the finish in you cylinder was caused by the material welding on the tip of the insert.
More coolant and surface speed helps but out of the question for that setup. A sharp with just a small radius hand ground MoMax high speed steel tool in a slotted steel bar maybe.
I'm not into big cu. In. Are you trying to produce something you can't buy commercially?
Am enjoying this thread however. Spent 46 years in that world from machines smaller then yours to those bigger then houses.
Best friend has a 1936 Harley. Still working there. He finishes the propeller shafting on the carriers. Still done with high speed tool steel.
Most carbides bits are setup to cut steel will gum up on aluminum. Dealing build up for sure but the inserts on the 1 inch bar cut aluminum pretty well. I'm using a cobalt steel short 1/2 inch boring tool on the sleeve step and the aluminum is still pretty gummy there with the steel bits.
You can buy 4 1/8 cylinders. You can also have the sleeves installed for slightly less. It's something I wanted to try.
Most carbides bits are setup to cut steel will gum up on aluminum. Dealing build up for sure but the inserts on the 1 inch bar cut aluminum pretty well. I'm using a cobalt steel short 1/2 inch boring tool on the sleeve step and the aluminum is still pretty gummy there with the steel bits.
You can buy 4 1/8 cylinders. You can also have the sleeves installed for slightly less. It's something I wanted to try.
Yes, you are trying real hard... I'm enjoying it but not envious.... 88 cu in scares me now..
Yes, you are trying real hard... I'm enjoying it but not envious.... 88 cu in scares me now..
For me a 88 ci TC was under powered. This bike on the first build was 95 ci.. It should have stayed that way.. I still like a good running 95 ci TC. Put 60000 miles on a 2002 RK that way. I could build this bike back to stage 1 or even a hot 95. but figured I'd try a 107 as the cost would be minimal. It allows me to keep the heads and cams.
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