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Harley 135se vs built motor

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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 09:03 AM
  #21  
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So what cam did you decide on?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
So what cam did you decide on?
Maxcell 837B
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 09:56 AM
  #23  
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Looks like a good cam from what I've seen. Be interesting to see if you hit the 170/170. Looks like it might come up a little short on the top (hp) but may be exhaust differences too. The 131s I'm seeing are like mid 160s torque/150s hp. They were with the 64mm TB. Maybe a max flow? What exhaust did you decide on?
Either way, it will rock I'm sure. Numbers are numbers. You're leaving no stone unturned.
We'll have to hook up in the spring.

Here's a 126" with the 890A and Khromewerks 212.
Well crap. Imgbb is having issues but it was 168hp/164 torque in a 126.

​​​​It seems the 837b does better with the khromewerks 212 than a 2in1. 163hp/166 torque in a 131. Interesting cams.

jbcycles.net/dyno-runs

 

Last edited by 60Gunner; Nov 3, 2023 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 11:18 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
Huh? AFR doesn't get any better than that. 14.5:1 on a WOT throttle pull? I don't think so. 12.8 - 13.



Nothing wrong with being cautious but at .003 he's not building ANY without doing the crank.
Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Your builder appears to be too touchy.. .003" it's nothing...
​​​​​​​
My last build I did ( the 110") I measured .006"on the pinion and there was no abnormal wear on the cam plate.. I'll be checking run out this winter to see where of it changes any..
I should've noted the goals here, not my type of build..
​​​​​​​Getting into those numbers 160+ yeah you better get the wheels properly done up.. My bad..
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 12:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
Looks like a good cam from what I've seen. Be interesting to see if you hit the 170/170. Looks like it might come up a little short on the top (hp) but may be exhaust differences too. The 131s I'm seeing are like mid 160s torque/150s hp. They were with the 64mm TB. Maybe a max flow? What exhaust did you decide on?
Either way, it will rock I'm sure. Numbers are numbers. You're leaving no stone unturned.
We'll have to hook up in the spring.

Here's a 126" with the 890A and Khromewerks 212.
Well crap. Imgbb is having issues but it was 168hp/164 torque in a 126.

​​​​It seems the 837b does better with the khromewerks 212 than a 2in1. 163hp/166 torque in a 131. Interesting cams.

jbcycles.net/dyno-runs
Defiantly need to talk in the spring.

So I went with 4-5/8 stroke crank makes the motor a 133 Im going with a 68TB ended up going D&D for exhaust. Jake said last 133 almost same build made 175 & 180. But who knows I will post dyno when it’s done.

To me I’m building the bike to make it as bullet proof as I can not crazy numbers. The numbers are just a added bonus. Im sure you already knew that from our phone call.

let’s talk tires I’m leaning towards the Metzeler cruistec

any opinions?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 02:30 PM
  #26  
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I run the Cruisetec and like it. Been running it since my build. It's a good combination of sticky and rides nice and it hooks up nice with my gearing and the narrow clutch setup I've become accustomed to.
​​​I've got the 888 on the front.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 06:50 PM
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For the tires I've been running the Shinko 003 Stealth drag radial. And I must say that tire really hooks up very well.. It'll be hard to find a tire that can connect to the road as good as that one... I'm also running the Michelin Commander 2 radial in the front and that bike stays planted... 127 mph without issues... Actually I need to get another one because I only have 3,000 miles on this one and it's almost gone..
 
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Old Nov 6, 2023 | 09:55 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
For the tires I've been running the Shinko 003 Stealth drag radial. And I must say that tire really hooks up very well.. It'll be hard to find a tire that can connect to the road as good as that one... I'm also running the Michelin Commander 2 radial in the front and that bike stays planted... 127 mph without issues... Actually I need to get another one because I only have 3,000 miles on this one and it's almost gone..
🫣 Very few will even mention Shinko, while most whine about their "safety" and only the best "dunflop!
George Brice (a champion drag racer and creator or Star cams) runs 9 and 10 secs on Shinko street tires regularly at around 130mph.
The most expensive HD Dunlop would not stop my simple 128" Stage 4 M8 from going sideways most times when going in to 2nd gear, or anything in 1st gear ya better be moving in a straight line....
Shinko fixed that problem completely as front wheel coming up in 2nd is much better than sideways especially when you have 4 sons that ride it from to time, 25yrs to 33yrs old.
Dunlop lasted about 3500 miles and my Shinko now has 5k miles and thinking it "may" make 7k and yes I obviously do ride fairly hard. (My shovelheads get about 4k on a rear tire as I cut up too much)
I realize most of these Dunlop fanatics definitely don't ride radical EVER!
BUT, if the tire definitely won't hold traction on a decent running bike for going forward, the exact same thing can be said for stopping!
As these Dunlop and high mileage tire freaks rave about how many miles they can get from a tire, I wonder how many could have been saved "if" they could have stopped just a little bit quicker?🤔
They preach about "only the best", but if all you needed was a little more stopping power, THAT would have been the best in a crunch.

And yes as far as the main topic 170/170, I would definitely, while tranny is out get a chain drive and lose the belt, unless you don't plan on riding it hard "ever".
With a Shinko back there of course 😜

Nothing against Metzler as that is what I ran back in my Ninja 900 days of the mid 80s and they were best for traction in that day. But, I haven't tried them in 35 years but reputable still indeed, but of course more BANK.

Ride Safe✌️
 

Last edited by Bayou FLHR-M8-128"; Nov 6, 2023 at 10:10 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2023 | 10:12 AM
  #29  
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I only read the first five or six posts, and stopped. So my apologies if I’m being redundant here. But you are absolutely agonizing over nothing. The difference between a 131 and a 135 is exactly that. Four. It should equate to about 1.3 Ho per cubic inch. Personally, I would not go to a 135 unless your motor needed to be rebuilt. I think that’s just dumb money. If your heads weren’t done properly or if there’s something wrong internally or maybe a cam selection or as somebody mentioned in the first few posts, pipe selection, that’s about all I’d do. Because magically turning it into a 135 with the same parts isn’t gonna give you any more power but maybe six or 7 hp.

I would guess that what you’re missing is they either creeped the compression way up put in a different pipe a different cam and they’re not running pump gas. In fact, that’s probably ethanol free hundred octane, gas that it’s tuned to to make those numbers.

Sorry, if I sound grouchy or annoyed, but I get kind of caught up in all these ridiculous people talking about Dyno sheets. It’s just the stupidest thing ever. Go to the dragstrip. That’s what fast is. These Dyno sheets mean nothing it’s a game, and it digs everybody’s wallets, and they all bloviate and pound their chest and act like they’re making all this power, and then they show up at the dragstrip and they’re not even fast is my shovel. It’s just stupid. Your agonizing talking about $8000 over six or 7 hp. Horsepower.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2023 | 10:15 AM
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Pipe, induction and tuning is all I would do to your 131. I do think your numbers are a tad low. And as mentioned, it’s all pipe induction and tuning. You don’t need to tare apart the motor over it.

if nobody’s ever gonna race their bike against someone else to really find out, then why are you killing yourself. Just go get some white out and write whatever number you want on that piece of paper because if it’s never gonna be proven or tested who cares.
 

Last edited by Rains2much; Nov 6, 2023 at 10:37 AM.
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