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How to break nut free

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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 08:41 AM
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Default How to break nut free


Primary Drive

Primary dr tool

Tool inprogress for breaking clutch nut free
Is there a better way to break the front crank nut free than wedging an impliment between the front and rear primary sprockets/chains. Seems Neanderthal to do it that way.
In-progress in making a tool to hold the clutch center to break 1.5" nut free.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 09:15 AM
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You need a locking bar to wedge in the teeth of the comp sprocket teeth and clutch hub sprocket teeth to prevent the parts from turning. Then a long (36 or longer inch) braker bar with the correct size 6 point socket. The threads are right, so turn if left to remove it.

It's possible someone used the high strength red thread locker (locktite) on the nut when it was last installed. That may require some heat to losen the thread locker (locktite). But try to losen it without heat first. And if heat is required, just get it hot, not glowing red.

If you end up needing to remove the clutch basket, the same locking bar tool works, but the threads are left.

Paul
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 09:49 AM
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Locking bar in the sprockets is not neanderthal, this process has been used since before we were born (I`m 69).

However, the locking bar isn`t going to help with the clutch hub retaining nut at this point.

Transmission in gear, hold rear wheel, untorque nut.

Originally Posted by pgreer
If you end up needing to remove the clutch basket, the same locking bar tool works, but the threads are left.
A little caution here....

We need to know the model and year...

No left hand threads on an Ironhead.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Nov 30, 2023 at 10:08 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 10:11 AM
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I appreciate the advice. Engine was received out of the frame and somewhat disassembled. Understand on not neanderthal to do it that way. Just wanted to do it properly
It's a 1975 XR 750
 

Last edited by Mofosheee; Nov 30, 2023 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 10:16 AM
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Do you have a factory service manual?

This will tell you what type threads on the clutch hub nut, follow the service manual on this.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by pgreer
You need a locking bar to wedge in the teeth of the comp sprocket teeth and clutch hub sprocket teeth to prevent the parts from turning. Then a long (36 or longer inch) braker bar with the correct size 6 point socket. The threads are right, so turn if left to remove it.

It's possible someone used the high strength red thread locker (locktite) on the nut when it was last installed. That may require some heat to losen the thread locker (locktite). But try to losen it without heat first. And if heat is required, just get it hot, not glowing red.

If you end up needing to remove the clutch basket, the same locking bar tool works, but the threads are left.

Paul
Understand to anticipate probable locktite.......will warm up. Right hand threads on the crank, expect left hand threads on the clutch basket.
Looking for a commerical business to media tumble the cases for this restoration.
Anyone come to mind?

Thanks very much for taking the time to respond.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 10:18 AM
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yes, on the manual. Getting ready to cross that bridge
Thanks
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mofosheee
expect left hand threads on the clutch basket.
Follow the service manual, does it say the clutch hub retaining nut has L/H thread?

Lots of people here think all Harleys are the same...caution.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 10:22 AM
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I'll find out this afternoon
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 10:30 AM
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I don't know of anyone that can media tumble anything that large, perhaps others will.

I use crushed walnut shells as they do not remove any metal or impregnate the metal and leave a nice surface finish. Vapor honing is another option that does not impregnate the metal. Just clean everything up really well (no grease or oil) before you start. And after.

As Dan said, double check that the clutch hub nut isn't right thread on that year and model.

Paul
 
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