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103" build

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Old Feb 3, 2024 | 11:12 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by CoolBreeze3646

What is scary about this is that the standard size on that cylinder should be 3.4375 (3 7/16) and dragonman says the 10 over is (3).437. The 10 over piston should be about 3.446 with the bore being 3.4475..

Add:

Another scary thing is that DM used the 80 grit stones to get to 0 on the indicator then runs over to the other hone, does a few strokes and gets 0 again.. The other hone didn't take anything out.. That means the cylinder still has pretty much a 80 grit finish..
 

Last edited by Max Headflow; Feb 3, 2024 at 11:28 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 06:31 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by CoolBreeze3646
Originally Posted by Rounders
I am going to call it a bit, because I don't know proper term. I am thinking like a drill press assembly. Obviously not the same . Does one bit bore top to bottom, them next goes bigger? Standard bits you grab and install next bigger size? Like a massive drill index?

Or do you adjust the diameter of the cutter to the width you want?

​​​
Originally Posted by Max Headflow
What is scary about this is that the standard size on that cylinder should be 3.4375 (3 7/16) and dragonman says the 10 over is (3).437. The 10 over piston should be about 3.446 with the bore being 3.4475..
Add:
Another scary thing is that DM used the 80 grit stones to get to 0 on the indicator then runs over to the other hone, does a few strokes and gets 0 again.. The other hone didn't take anything out.. That means the cylinder still has pretty much a 80 grit finish..
Yeah, did not fact check the cylinder information or other stuff. Was trying to provide tool & equipment information on what is used for the round man so he could maybe understand the process instead of jabbering about drill sizes etc.

With all the information he provides on mechanical issues, there seems to be a lack of understanding of the basics.

Not that I am an expert on cylinder boring etc.; I leave that to someone who has the equipment, knowledge, and reputation for good work they stand behind.

I know enough for basic things and know what I don't know.

Hope Rounders gets his project back together and running. We will see. Hopefully there will not be any left over parts.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 08:43 AM
  #53  
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Coolio you ever open an engine on a Harley? It is really not that bad if you follow the manual

No proof on numbers, but it seemed fairly common on TC88s. Maybe more people were happy with 96, I was. Maybe men were not wrenching as much. Maybe it is just inaccurate anecdotal evidence.

I also didn't do my 96" because I didn't think bottom end could take it.. looks like I was right

 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 09:30 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Rounders
Coolio you ever open an engine on a Harley? It is really not that bad if you follow the manual
Nope, never had to, always maintained them and have not had any issues except my 2007 FLHTC had the Inner Primary Bearing walk and did not know it until an indie pointed it out when changing a shifter seal.

I am more than capable though; however, I am in a position to pay trusted others to do the work for me so I do not have to crap up my garage, which gives me more time for riding.

I have in the past rebuild a couple of air cooled VW engines when I was in my 20s. Rebuilt a 1967 VW transporter 1600 cc (bus) engine and put it into a 1959 VW Beetle and and rebuilt a 1967 VW Bug engine for a friend.

Rebuilt a 1962 slant six Plymouth Barracuda engine in a winter car I had when I lived in upstate NY. And rebuilt a 318 engine that was in a 1977 1/2 ton van that I got for cheap.

I can now afford new vehicles and enjoy using them without the hassles associated with fixing stuff mostly.

I do buy motorcycles with potential off Craigslist and freshen them up if I can get them for the right price. I did this getting my son a better motorcycle as he grew older and moved up in size of motorcycles. He also learned some mechanical stuff like rebuilding carbs, brakes, and tear down, putting things back together in the correct order.

So yeah, I can do all that stuff, but currently have no need as the bikes in my garage are about what I need for various riding styles.

Below are a few that I have had over the last 15 years or so.









Son with the Ninja he did most of the work on.

 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 10:17 AM
  #55  
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None of mine needed to be bored. Well the 98 did have marks on load side of walls after 50k. So I guess something needed to be done. But guy like you never would have known.

I can afford to pay someone. I don't One reason I did my 88" is because I never did it, and it separates the men on here which is why I continue to do it for my own hubris.

It separates levels of riders who maintain older bikes, tear down top end , or pull on their crank. Funny thing is bottom end is not as big of deal as people think.

Unlike you, I just talk about what I know. Bought scanner to do my ABS too. I can afford it. If I remember right you pay dealer.

I am sure I don't have your wealth,but I am not starving.
 

Last edited by Rounders; Feb 4, 2024 at 10:22 AM.
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 10:24 AM
  #56  
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Gets real tiring. Guys who “used to” do the work. Used to wrench all these past old vehicles. Used to, could do, can’t be bothered to do it anymore guys that come on here and talk big, act smart, but never had a hd motor apart. Wow, let the grown man fantasy land carry on I guess it never ends.

Like the guys who always tell me, “ya, I used to do wheelies and burnouts like that”. When really it’s…you ain’t never done jack F all
 

Last edited by ntraindavefl; Feb 4, 2024 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 10:26 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by ntraindavefl
Gets real tiring. Guys who “used to” do the work. Used to wrench all these past old vehicles. Used to, could do, can’t be bothered to do it anymore guys that come on here and talk big, act smart, but never had a hd motor apart. Wow, let the grown man fantasy land carry on I guess it never ends.

Like the guys who always tell me, “ya, I used to go wheelies and burnouts like that”. When really it’s…you ain’t never done jack F all
It is right up there all the people you meat who used to ride. Want to tell you to dangerous , or not tell you gf made them give it up. Then you got the guys who someday will.

I am going to swear a time will come when I don't but for now I find pride and enjoy it. But is why you need multiple bikes. Do one can sit
 

Last edited by Rounders; Feb 4, 2024 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 11:11 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by CoolBreeze3646
Yeah, did not fact check the cylinder information or other stuff. Was trying to provide tool & equipment information on what is used for the round man so he could maybe understand the process instead of jabbering about drill sizes etc.

With all the information he provides on mechanical issues, there seems to be a lack of understanding of the basics.

Not that I am an expert on cylinder boring etc.; I leave that to someone who has the equipment, knowledge, and reputation for good work they stand behind.

I know enough for basic things and know what I don't know.

Hope Rounders gets his project back together and running. We will see. Hopefully there will not be any left over parts.
I'm not an expert but have bored a few hundred cylinders out.. Most were done a Kwik Way FW and FWS boring bar and some on a Van Norman and Rotler. All my recent stuff have been done on a 13x40 lathe with a 1 1/2 inch boring bar. I hone with a portable fixed hone that uses the same stones as the Sunnen hones in dragonman's horizontal hones.

Well Dragon Man does definitively leave a little out and it did not include boring. Kevin Baxter shows the process for boring a cylinder. He looks to be using a Kwik Way, FN or FW boring bar. We all have our own idiosyncrasies. The ones I don't care for in his are that he clamps to the cylinder top and only take 0.020 out.. Bottom is better as the bar doesn't travel as deep and the bottom sets the angle of the bore relative to the cases. Cylinder head squareness is not as important. I'd take bigger cuts at first then lighter ones on the final 1-2 passes. It's a matter of saving time.. Kevin seems to think heat is an issue while boring. IMO it's not. It's more important in fitting while honing. The good thing about most boring bars is that they have an auto stop so you can be doing something else while boring.


 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 01:18 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Rounders
Coolio you ever open an engine on a Harley? It is really not that bad if you follow the manual. No proof on numbers, but it seemed fairly common on TC88s. Maybe more people were happy with 96, I was. Maybe men were not wrenching as much. Maybe it is just inaccurate anecdotal evidence. I also didn't do my 96" because I didn't think bottom end could take it.. looks like I was right
Maybe not 96". IIRC, wasn't '07 the year the MoCo outsourced cranks off shore? IIRC, seems there was a marginal increase in crank failure with the '07 models while the new vendor worked out the bugs.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 05:20 PM
  #60  
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I wouldn't read too much into your rod bearing issues. Way more power being put to stock cranks every day than a 96 has.
Your reasoning to stay small because of heat makes no sense when you're thinking of skimping on the tune. I can tell you my high compression 107 build runs no hotter than it did as a stock 103. The difference is the tune. Not somewhere you want to skimp.
Hope you're not putting the stock rods back on that crank. You and your keep it oem is not always best. Those rods are the biggest issue with stock cranks. Has nothing to do with power.

I think that about covers your 5 threads...this week...on the same build. I have no doubt you will invent new ways to ask the same questions tho.
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Last edited by 60Gunner; Feb 4, 2024 at 06:21 PM.
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