Engine Tapping Sound
Wow, 240K miles on the original internals is IMPRESSIVE!
Reaper's original crank made it to around 217,500 miles before giving up the ghost. The rest of the internals were upgraded over the years. I'm with the above advice: pull it apart before buying parts, and take LOTS of pics! 
Cheers!
Reaper's original crank made it to around 217,500 miles before giving up the ghost. The rest of the internals were upgraded over the years. I'm with the above advice: pull it apart before buying parts, and take LOTS of pics! 
Cheers!
Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
To me it definitely sounds like a lifter collapsed and what I'm hearing is a loose pushrod in the rocker arm.. I wouldn't tear down the top end but cut the pushrods, seeing you have new adjustables.. Carefully inspect the ball ends of the pushrods for abnormal wear , especially the top. If so you will need to disassemble the top end to inspect the rockers.. 240k is a lot of miles.. I would do the S&S TC3 pump and plate.. Best out there.. Don't forget to check pinion run out.. Curios to see what the pinion shaft did to the OEM cam plate.. Also for $100 I would probably be doing both chains..
Don't forget, A lot of Pic's..
Note: before you purchase anything do the tear down and inspect first.. Then make your list..
Don't forget, A lot of Pic's..
Note: before you purchase anything do the tear down and inspect first.. Then make your list..
At that many miles, I would have to add a compression and/or leak down test to evaluate the condition of the top end and if it didn't pass muster, overbore and new rings would be on the parts list.
If you listen to the sound carefully you will hear a squeak and chirp off and on in the recording. That is a lifter roller locking up. Stop running it and get inside the cam chest. More than likely some cam damage is starting to occur as well.
Last edited by Ohio HD; Sep 17, 2024 at 03:27 PM.
With that many miles I would take top off not just cam chest. Replace breathers and inspect rocker arms.
If you don't you will need to cut pushrods.
With that many miles I would bore 10 over go to go 103 , which is what I did .
I might even consider inspecting bottom end.
There are lots of things I would replace if you have not. For me this would not be a weekend job I would tear into that bike based on mileage.
As for oil cooler, not saying you need one, but the idea it changes looks is a bit of a chuckle.
If you don't you will need to cut pushrods.
With that many miles I would bore 10 over go to go 103 , which is what I did .
I might even consider inspecting bottom end.
There are lots of things I would replace if you have not. For me this would not be a weekend job I would tear into that bike based on mileage.
As for oil cooler, not saying you need one, but the idea it changes looks is a bit of a chuckle.
You know what else it sounds like, this was a 107" I rode for awhile, until a strange rattle and knock showed up. In this case it was the crank pin and rod bearings headed south.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQGiXoWgISg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQGiXoWgISg
No gears, a simple 107" with Andrews 55 cams and chains.
I'll bet its lifter roller(s) or rod bearings.
If the rod bearings are failing, there should be metal particles in the oil filter media. It is a good idea to cut the oil filter open and inspect the media for debris from the bearings.














