EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Why the rear rocker boxes?

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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 08:55 PM
  #1  
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Default Why the rear rocker boxes?

In my search for information on fixing my weeping rear rocker box it seems that most of the posts on here are for just that- the rear rocker boxes.
Why is that?
I also have a few other questions about this job:
1. Is there a drain hole to be opened up a little between the top and bottom? (I think I read that somewhere on here)
2. Is there a reason for using new bolts and washers if the old ones are not distorted?
Thank you for your help.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Crashone
In my search for information on fixing my weeping rear rocker box it seems that most of the posts on here are for just that- the rear rocker boxes.
Why is that?
I also have a few other questions about this job:
1. Is there a drain hole to be opened up a little between the top and bottom? (I think I read that somewhere on here)
2. Is there a reason for using new bolts and washers if the old ones are not distorted?
Thank you for your help.

Rear one is hard to get to and often is not tightened evenly.

1: I wouldn't go messing with it.

2: New sealing washers for sure as the gasket material ones go hard with age....new bolts and washers is OTT and you get plenty of OTT advice from forum members with Asperger's Syndrome and too much money... steel washers should be replaced only if they are bent or dished.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:37 AM
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I don't know about a drain hole that has to be opened up but as Spanners says it is harder to get the rear one to tighten evenly.
Another thing is that it gets hotter than the front one and is more prone to warping.
Because of the close quarters it is harder to get the gaskets to stay in the right place when assembling.
There is no need to replace any of the bolts unless they are damaged in some way.
I use the copper crush washers on the top rocker box and those I replace every time.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:05 AM
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Default Rubber gaskets

I went to rubber gaskets and new washer seals for the cover bolts and most importantly I cut down an allen wrench to were the leg is only 5/16" in lengthy to make it easier to get the left rear bolt nice and tight. Plus it works well on the others tucked up under the tank.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:14 AM
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Thanks for the replies. That makes sense that the rear box would stay hotter as these are air cooled. I found a set of James gaskets with new bolt seals and umbrella valve etc. I think I'll pick up. I need to call the dealer and compare prices. I'll change front and back even though the front is not leaking yet.
How bad would it be to use a thin film of permatex to help hold the gaskets in place during assembly?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Crashone
Thanks for the replies. That makes sense that the rear box would stay hotter as these are air cooled. I found a set of James gaskets with new bolt seals and umbrella valve etc. I think I'll pick up. I need to call the dealer and compare prices. I'll change front and back even though the front is not leaking yet.
How bad would it be to use a thin film of permatex to help hold the gaskets in place during assembly?
If the front isn't leaking I wouldn't mess with it.
Permatex isn't the best idea because if any comes loose it could plug up an oil passage way.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 01:24 PM
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My '86 had results of damaged die at factory resulting in my grinding slot to proper dimension for top gasket when switching from cork to neoprene.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Crashone
In my search for information on fixing my weeping rear rocker box it seems that most of the posts on here are for just that- the rear rocker boxes.
Why is that?
It was the front one on my FLHS. Cheap aftermarket chrome covers. If you need to replace them, use Genuine Harley parts.
Originally Posted by Crashone
1. Is there a drain hole to be opened up a little between the top and bottom? (I think I read that somewhere on here).
Agree with Spanners: Don't mess with it.
Originally Posted by Crashone
2. Is there a reason for using new bolts and washers if the old ones are not distorted?
Agree with Spanners: Use the old ones if they are in good shape.
Originally Posted by Crashone
I'll change front and back even though the front is not leaking yet.
How bad would it be to use a thin film of permatex to help hold the gaskets in place during assembly?
I wouldn't, but it's your bike and your time. I never had to use any sticky stuff to hold anything in place. If you need something, you're better off, IMHO, using vaseline instead of permatex.
 

Last edited by Hackd; Dec 31, 2014 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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Default

Originally Posted by Crashone
Thanks for the replies. That makes sense that the rear box would stay hotter as these are air cooled. I found a set of James gaskets with new bolt seals and umbrella valve etc. I think I'll pick up. I need to call the dealer and compare prices. I'll change front and back even though the front is not leaking yet.
How bad would it be to use a thin film of permatex to help hold the gaskets in place during assembly?


never use permatex on rubber gaskets it wont bond and will eventually leak.
if you want to use something to hold them in place. use threebond 1211 or yamabond 4 or hondabond ht there all the same stuff made by threebond
it is water, oil, gas, and heat resistant.


ive used it on shovel heads as a cylinder base gasket to lower the cylinder never leaked
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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Man that's some good feedback here, thank you. I agree with if it ain't broke don't fix it , so I'll leave the front one alone for now.
Then there is the other train of thought that has gotten me in trouble before: if it ain't broke tear it apart and find out why.
 
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