EVO All Evo Model Discussion

EVO left me stranded today

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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 06:05 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by falconbrother

2manyhobbies75, I'm in High Point NC. I do some of my HD business at Smokin in WS although, I'm very aware that they don't love me much. The last major time this thing wouldn't start was in their parking lot. I sat there for about two hours messing with the thing. I went to the service department to see if I could roll the bike in and let a mechanic look at it. They basically said no. I'll bet if you had an old Ford or Chevy and broke down in the dealers lot they would at least let you pay them a small ransom to look at it. If you own an older Harley you're own your own in the world. I bought a Heritage from Smokin a few years ago and paid too much for it.

I do some of my HD'n at Greensboro HD. I bought two brand new, off the truck, bikes from them in 2001. They have said that they would work on my bike if I needed it but, they wanted $330.00 for a back tire and were unaware that the bearings would need to be repacked. The price and the bearing issue scared me into mounting my own tire and packing my own bearings. I do all of my parts shopping from the American Heritage museum in Asheboro. That guy really knows his stuff about EVOs, Shovels, Pans, Knuckles and Flats. He says he knows squat about TCs and don't want to know about them. Great place to take your business. Plus, as you probably know, they have one heck of a great breakfast there. It takes me about a half hour to get there from my house.
Wow... What a bunch of a-holes! Can't believe they were willing to leave you stranded.
I actually knew nothing about the American Heritage museum, sounds like a pretty cool place though.
Glad to hear you are zeroing into what's causing your issue!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 08:05 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
You don't need to tap the holes if you just rotate it 90. But then the plate won't read properly. I use a generic chrome plate.
Just do this, you'll thank us.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:06 AM
  #33  
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OK, I went out and started the bike with the outer fairing off. I pushed up on the wiring bundle that runs in from the right side frame and the bike cuts off, every time. I thought that that bundle was just lights -n- such. Anyway, it's a rats nest under the fairing so, this will probably take a while. I would like to note that the dash lights are completely unaffected. They don't blink or anything. The bike just dies.

According to the service manual the wiring that runs up the left side is the wires to and from the module. I wiggle those and nothing changes. I'm draining the tank now to pull it. That won't take long. Lord knows I've done it a dozen times in the last year. I need a beer.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:10 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by falconbrother
OK, I went out and started the bike with the outer fairing off. I pushed up on the wiring bundle that runs in from the right side frame and the bike cuts off, every time. I thought that that bundle was just lights -n- such. Anyway, it's a rats nest under the fairing so, this will probably take a while. I would like to note that the dash lights are completely unaffected. They don't blink or anything. The bike just dies.

According to the service manual the wiring that runs up the left side is the wires to and from the module. I wiggle those and nothing changes. I'm draining the tank now to pull it. That won't take long. Lord knows I've done it a dozen times in the last year. I need a beer.
Well your a bit closer to the solution rather than doing guess work. At least you have the factory manual.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #35  
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OK, so, out of the following choices, which wire, if grounded or broken, would cause all the lights to stay on but cut the ignition both front and rear?

1). White wire to coil, rear only.
2). Pink wire to coil, front only.
3). Green and black wire to the oil pressure switch.
4). Black wire from starter switch to starter relay ground side.

If a Harley EVO loses oil pressure will it cut the ignition?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 12:46 PM
  #36  
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I'm guessing white wire.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 01:06 PM
  #37  
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the white wire to coil is the positive wire attach a test light to this wire turn on ignition and start wiggling wires
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 01:35 PM
  #38  
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You have two sides to your ignition primary and secondary.Your primary is ignition switch, battery circuit breaker and related wiring. The secondary is the coil,trigger and the module. You need to find out which is giving you the problem.If the light goes out when you do the wiggle test then your problem is in your primary. You can ride the mc with the light connected if mc shuts off and light is still on this will eliminate primary side. You can disconnect trigger from module and take flat blade screwdriver and short the two male pins on motorcycle side of connecter this tricks module in thinking engine is turning over if it sparks then it is your tigger
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 01:39 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by falconbrother
OK, so, out of the following choices, which wire, if grounded or broken, would cause all the lights to stay on but cut the ignition both front and rear?

1). White wire to coil, rear only.
2). Pink wire to coil, front only.
3). Green and black wire to the oil pressure switch.
4). Black wire from starter switch to starter relay ground side.

If a Harley EVO loses oil pressure will it cut the ignition?
1) power to ignition coil from handlebar ignition kill switch, the path also goes through 2 connectors, grey provides power to ign handlebar switch from ign circuit breaker, the other white wire from coil is power to ign module.
2)tach signal
3) that's either for gauge or light, not the problem
4)that black energizes starter relay

Light only on no oil pressure

Pull on white wire in main harness where it flexes near the steering neck, there's your problem
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 04:39 PM
  #40  
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Well, I think it's fixed and was corrosion in the connector. I searched wires for any sign of a problem and found nothing. I rerouted them, reconnected them and fire it up. Could not get it to lose spark. Then I cleaned everything good and used dielectric grease and put everything back. I tested and tested and can't get the problem to come back so, I'm calling it fixed. Here's the wires and connector:



BTW.. As I get older I am finding that I over think every damn thing.. I wish I had tried to clean the connectors as the very first thing.
 

Last edited by falconbrother; Jan 19, 2015 at 04:44 PM.
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