head volume

WP
Last edited by WP50; Mar 6, 2015 at 06:44 PM.

WP
I've got a few national best of show awards, several 300 bowling rings and a chess championship, going to input my theory.
The voes IS a fail safe device to prevent damage BY retarding timing in a detonation prone condition that does it's job and can see why it is fallen back on as a savior because timing is advanced enough where a voes has to save it. For those who run a Evo at it's edge of cranking compression and search for power by maximum timing advance without detonation, having timing pulled back by a voes isn't a goal, instead spend enough time tuning the engine so it has correct AFR's in detonation prone areas, adjust timing, re-adjust AFR's after timing adjustments and use in stone tuning that gives peace of mind and full power when the time comes.
On the other hand, you could adjust a voes into a compression engine by tweaking and still become a fail safe once again and probably a good idea for someone learning how to tune a monster. For squeezing HP at a fine line it will add another hurdle plus a hole in a diaphram is a leanout.
Before I get testy havn't started the White Bike since November, voes has is uses but for combining AFR's, timing efficiency and maximum cylinder heat without damage, it is best to trust equipment not spring pressure controlling paper movement.
Now if a Yankee had a SI model for the winter time, they might not get so testy but she would need to scream calculated compression numbers in bed.
The voes IS a fail safe device to prevent damage BY retarding timing in a detonation prone condition that does it's job and can see why it is fallen back on as a savior because timing is advanced enough where a voes has to save it. For those who run a Evo at it's edge of cranking compression and search for power by maximum timing advance without detonation, having timing pulled back by a voes isn't a goal, instead spend enough time tuning the engine so it has correct AFR's in detonation prone areas, adjust timing, re-adjust AFR's after timing adjustments and use in stone tuning that gives peace of mind and full power when the time comes.
On the other hand, you could adjust a voes into a compression engine by tweaking and still become a fail safe once again and probably a good idea for someone learning how to tune a monster. For squeezing HP at a fine line it will add another hurdle plus a hole in a diaphram is a leanout.
Before I get testy havn't started the White Bike since November, voes has is uses but for combining AFR's, timing efficiency and maximum cylinder heat without damage, it is best to trust equipment not spring pressure controlling paper movement.
Now if a Yankee had a SI model for the winter time, they might not get so testy but she would need to scream calculated compression numbers in bed.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Mar 7, 2015 at 01:50 PM.
The guy had said that he left the wire disconnected and tucked back into the harness so there wouldn't be any retarding to the timing. That's why I suggested setting his ignition module to the preloaded factory curve 3. I have the same ignition and if you want to spend the money for the usb cable you can create a curve that works best for your application. And yeah fantasy on the SI but I did sleep at a holiday inn....and have one of these too.........
The guy had said that he left the wire disconnected and tucked back into the harness so there wouldn't be any retarding to the timing. That's why I suggested setting his ignition module to the preloaded factory curve 3. I have the same ignition and if you want to spend the money for the usb cable you can create a curve that works best for your application. And yeah fantasy on the SI but I did sleep at a holiday inn....and have one of these too.........
Congrats on the ring, they are earned.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Mar 7, 2015 at 08:26 PM.
If we look deeper into tuning the modern EFI using a knock sensor that detects detonation like a voes, tuners go back with recorded runs and locate the area where timing was removed, check AFR and timing in that area, makes adjustments to remove detonation so timing isn't being removed robbing power and simple as that with equipment. A timing retarder is being used as a tool to locate and tune out detonation in a proper tune, not mask it so proper tunes are not relying on a knock sensor or voes.
The prehistoric drip carb can produce power, If you actually know what your AFR's are then it would be easier to create a timing curve, with carb crossovers fluctuating, would be easy to mask problems by removing timing as a guess instead of being lean, it still comes back to equipment. Have watched and read every tuning debate there is and no worthy dyno tuner will come off his secrets of setting timing so no good info to help the DIY guys and becomes more complicated with a tweak here or a tweak there and a tweak makes it worse becoming a major setback and confusion for a DIY.
The guy with the ugly orange chopper might have an inside track with the manufacturer giving out pointers on timing curves and I know he has access to a dyno, both features none of us currently have and outweighs my credentials mentioned earlier.
The prehistoric drip carb can produce power, If you actually know what your AFR's are then it would be easier to create a timing curve, with carb crossovers fluctuating, would be easy to mask problems by removing timing as a guess instead of being lean, it still comes back to equipment. Have watched and read every tuning debate there is and no worthy dyno tuner will come off his secrets of setting timing so no good info to help the DIY guys and becomes more complicated with a tweak here or a tweak there and a tweak makes it worse becoming a major setback and confusion for a DIY.
The guy with the ugly orange chopper might have an inside track with the manufacturer giving out pointers on timing curves and I know he has access to a dyno, both features none of us currently have and outweighs my credentials mentioned earlier.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Mar 7, 2015 at 09:27 PM.
Thank you bagger. and yes it is harder with carburetion as compared to EFI to set a curve, we will only get it close without a dyno. making adjustments and using seat of pants and ears is our only alternative. Experience is the key... I remember centrifugal advance and the pita they were as well as knock sensors....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Mar 7, 2015 at 10:48 PM.










