Dragging clutch
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
The double pic was not intentional, not much of a computer head.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 81
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
Had the clutch drag on my 97FLHTC on a trip. Got home and took it apart and found shock absorbing clutch plate had fallen apart. Consulted with a friend that was a HD dealer tech and he said happens all the time. Replaced clutch with a set of plates from J&P that said extra plate kit. Was all better after that. Good luck!!
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,489
Likes: 1,017
From: Osoyoos B C Canada
Had the clutch drag on my 97FLHTC on a trip. Got home and took it apart and found shock absorbing clutch plate had fallen apart. Consulted with a friend that was a HD dealer tech and he said happens all the time. Replaced clutch with a set of plates from J&P that said extra plate kit. Was all better after that. Good luck!!
Thanks
Dave
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 81
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
The shock absorbing plate is a bit thicker than a standard friction or steel. It takes up the extra room in the clutch pack that removing the absorber plate generates.
The extra plate makes the stack height correct for the clutch basket.
When mine came apart there were little brass screws or rivets that came loose and cocked up the clutch.
If you go to J&P web site and look up stock HD clutch parts I believe it is shown.
The extra plate makes the stack height correct for the clutch basket.
When mine came apart there were little brass screws or rivets that came loose and cocked up the clutch.
If you go to J&P web site and look up stock HD clutch parts I believe it is shown.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,125
Likes: 1,753
From: In The Woods, PA
The shock absorbing plate is a bit thicker than a standard friction or steel. It takes up the extra room in the clutch pack that removing the absorber plate generates.
The extra plate makes the stack height correct for the clutch basket.
When mine came apart there were little brass screws or rivets that came loose and cocked up the clutch.
If you go to J&P web site and look up stock HD clutch parts I believe it is shown.
The extra plate makes the stack height correct for the clutch basket.
When mine came apart there were little brass screws or rivets that came loose and cocked up the clutch.
If you go to J&P web site and look up stock HD clutch parts I believe it is shown.
Same thing happened to me. I went this the HD Screamin Eagle heavy duty clutch. Same one that is in the Police bikes. No more spring plate, but a much heavier lever pull. big improvement over the stock set up with the spring plate.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 264
Likes: 24
From: Jackson, MS
Me too!
I have adjusted my clutch three times in the last three days! When I pulled into the garage, the clutch was pulling so hard, it stalled when I came to a complete stop. Instead of fooling with it, I will just go ahead and replace the clutch. Will Barnett P/N 307-30-20011 work for my 1990 Springer? What is the difference between Kevlar & carbon fiber, other than a few dollars in price?
Thanks, Shimaze
http://www.barnettclutches.com/
BTW> I am a safety phobia/OCD person. I can see that not being able to disengage the clutch is an accident waiting to happen, especially if you can't shift into neutral. To stop the bike, I guess you would have to use the kill switch. The engine would still turn and slow the bike down. But at some point, near complete stop, I would suspect that the tire would lock up? This theory would be greatly exacerbated if it were raining and/or turning? Any would tried killing the motor and not pulling in the clutch lever?
Thanks, Shimaze
http://www.barnettclutches.com/
BTW> I am a safety phobia/OCD person. I can see that not being able to disengage the clutch is an accident waiting to happen, especially if you can't shift into neutral. To stop the bike, I guess you would have to use the kill switch. The engine would still turn and slow the bike down. But at some point, near complete stop, I would suspect that the tire would lock up? This theory would be greatly exacerbated if it were raining and/or turning? Any would tried killing the motor and not pulling in the clutch lever?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
Kinda like when the clutch cable snaps while you're riding, dreading that day seeing I have no kill switch. Guess I'll hit the ignition switch.
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 264
Likes: 24
From: Jackson, MS
Full speed ahead, ...no clutch needed!
On the 90yr. Evo flhtcu 5 speed clutch adjustment at room temp 80% (If clutch discs & plates are installed in hub properly to specs) #1 the clutch lever cable adjustment is turned to it's losses point. #2 remove the clutch inspection plate on the primary housing. #3 loosen the jam nut on the adjuster screw and back the screw out for play on the clutch push rod. #4 grab the clutch cable and pull then push to seat or settle the ***** the clutch cam in side the trans housing. #5 make sure the cable is loose before you go to the clutch hub to adjust the push rod screw. Turn the push-rod screw inward to remove the slack in the outer hub-plate and the clutch-cam #6 Back out the screw tell you see the plate move to Zero lash. Turn the allen screw out a half turn if cold or three quarter of a turn if warm, tighten lock nut. #7 go to the cable adjuster and remove are the slack in the cable to the lever, pull on the lever and look at the clutch plate to see if it is working. Pop the lever out two or three time and see if the play is the same if so good now adjust the lever to one/eighth inch or to your liking. Install inspection plate on primary side and go for a ride.
Will these detailed instructions work on my 1990 Softail Springer? I just bought this motorcycle a couple of months ago. I have no idea what the previous owner did. I have been having a lot of problems with the clutch not releasing. When I am stopped at a traffic light, it wants to pull. I have to hold it back with the brake. If I release the brake, the motorcycle will take off fast enough that I can ride it (while holding down the clutch lever) I have adjusted the in-cable clutch adjustment three times in three days. Heat seems to make it much worse, but I don't know if letting it cool down will ease up the clutch?
I am in the process of changing all the fluids. Do I need to take the right transmission cover off? I have a gasket for it and the trans is empty (waiting to put the trans fliud in it). The trans was low on fluid, but not completely empty. I would take the cover off to look at it, but I am not sure what can be done with the ball & ramp and other associated parts. The primary is empty and I plan on refilling with ATF. The primary was at the normal level it was supposed to be. With the way the clutch was pulling, I expected it to be dry. The fluid looked pretty thick.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I am a good car mechanic, but this is the first Harley I have ever worked on.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Will these detailed instructions work on my 1990 Softail Springer? I just bought this motorcycle a couple of months ago. I have no idea what the previous owner did. I have been having a lot of problems with the clutch not releasing. When I am stopped at a traffic light, it wants to pull. I have to hold it back with the brake. If I release the brake, the motorcycle will take off fast enough that I can ride it (while holding down the clutch lever) I have adjusted the in-cable clutch adjustment three times in three days. Heat seems to make it much worse, but I don't know if letting it cool down will ease up the clutch?
I am in the process of changing all the fluids. Do I need to take the right transmission cover off? I have a gasket for it and the trans is empty (waiting to put the trans fliud in it). The trans was low on fluid, but not completely empty. I would take the cover off to look at it, but I am not sure what can be done with the ball & ramp and other associated parts. The primary is empty and I plan on refilling with ATF. The primary was at the normal level it was supposed to be. With the way the clutch was pulling, I expected it to be dry. The fluid looked pretty thick.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I am a good car mechanic, but this is the first Harley I have ever worked on.
I am in the process of changing all the fluids. Do I need to take the right transmission cover off? I have a gasket for it and the trans is empty (waiting to put the trans fliud in it). The trans was low on fluid, but not completely empty. I would take the cover off to look at it, but I am not sure what can be done with the ball & ramp and other associated parts. The primary is empty and I plan on refilling with ATF. The primary was at the normal level it was supposed to be. With the way the clutch was pulling, I expected it to be dry. The fluid looked pretty thick.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I am a good car mechanic, but this is the first Harley I have ever worked on.
I strongly recommend you get yourself a factory service manual asap, which will answer all your questions on servicing your bike. As an established mechanic I reckon you will appreciate the way it is compiled and the info it provides.