Exhaust Tick
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,216
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From: Buford, GA
Well a leak down test is the best way to find a burnt valve, once you have your compression tester you can use it for leak down, just hook it to a compressor on that cyclinder and listen to hear if it hissing out the exhaust.
Riding it probably won't hurt it more than it already is, I imagine the seat is shot, so, going to need the heads redone.
You have got to remember we are diagnosing over the internet, listening to a video, sooooo, don't jump to any conclusions until you do the tests.
Riding it probably won't hurt it more than it already is, I imagine the seat is shot, so, going to need the heads redone.
You have got to remember we are diagnosing over the internet, listening to a video, sooooo, don't jump to any conclusions until you do the tests.
I know a rebuild is in the future. The cases will have to be split to fix a small oil leak, but I was hoping that was farther down the road.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
Adding air to the cylinder when at tdc will let you know if it's coming out of the exhaust valve. a regulator or control valve would be a wise choice to gradually bring the cylinder pressure up. If it leaks you will hear it...
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
those pipes i have seen them make all kinds of noise - if you dont find anything in your testing - take the pipes off - use the dresser gaskets ( thick tapered cones ) not the small thin flat o ring type - never seeze the studs lightly for the attachments - then use the gray silicone < i dont care what others use - coat the entire cone and slide it in the pipe - it will need to be snugged a couple of times before its square to the port, over a couple of heat cycles - keep an eye on the depth of the nuts keeping then all the same hights top and bottom in the squeeze
the silicone coating of all of it with gloves on - allows you to slide the cones in and the gray goes away to the eyes / red black and blue is an eye sore
the silicone coating of all of it with gloves on - allows you to slide the cones in and the gray goes away to the eyes / red black and blue is an eye sore
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 286
From: Buford, GA
those pipes i have seen them make all kinds of noise - if you dont find anything in your testing - take the pipes off - use the dresser gaskets ( thick tapered cones ) not the small thin flat o ring type - never seeze the studs lightly for the attachments - then use the gray silicone < i dont care what others use - coat the entire cone and slide it in the pipe - it will need to be snugged a couple of times before its square to the port, over a couple of heat cycles - keep an eye on the depth of the nuts keeping then all the same hights top and bottom in the squeeze
the silicone coating of all of it with gloves on - allows you to slide the cones in and the gray goes away to the eyes / red black and blue is an eye sore
the silicone coating of all of it with gloves on - allows you to slide the cones in and the gray goes away to the eyes / red black and blue is an eye sore
Thanks John,
As usual...I appreciate your help. I wish I'd know there were problems with these Rush pipes before picking them up. I'll still do the compression test and leak down test to be sure. Bike is still running good...just has that annoying tick at idle.
I did replace the gasket on the rear pipe yesterday and still had the tick.
I have the tapered graphite HD gaskets. So coat the gaskets with gray silicone. Slide the tapered cone gasket into the port in the head...then slide the pipe flange into the gasket? Do I have that right? Better to use the Jims exhaust gasket tool to make sure the gaskets go in square?
If it turns out to be the pipes, I can always put the pipes that were on it back on....different look, but still sounded good.
Thanks,
Tony
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
what ever works - some moving the pipe around kind of thing, sometimes you just cant get it to go one way but with some ok i will do it like this can help
making off set washers for that kind of thing is a home owner fix in a shop paying a shop labor rate for exhaust tick that could come back is expensive and makes no friends
if it has shields take them off and look for cracks very small with a black coating around it
making off set washers for that kind of thing is a home owner fix in a shop paying a shop labor rate for exhaust tick that could come back is expensive and makes no friends
if it has shields take them off and look for cracks very small with a black coating around it
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 286
From: Buford, GA
In preparing to do a compression test, the FSM says to disconnect the spark plug wires. No other mention of grounding them, but I believe I've read that they should be grounded to prevent damage to the ignition system. If so, just one or both?
Thanks,
Tony
Thanks,
Tony
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
must have done it a thousand times never seen an ignition fail