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Three reasons, you can adjust out all valve train noise.
The engine has hydraulic lifters, much like many automobiles, and you don`t see adjustable pushrods used on any pushrod equipped cars, ever...
The piston in the lifter has the same oil pressure inside, no matter what position in the bore it is. How do you figure you can change this by adjusting the pushrod length?
I think most of the valvetrain noise that people are trying to solve by playing with adjustable lifters is not lifter noise at all, but excess backlash between the cam and pinion gear.
Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
and believe it or not better performance...
Adjustable pushrods do not add any performance to an engine, if fact they are heavier, so you are adding reciprocating weight in the valvetrain.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; May 9, 2015 at 09:56 AM.
The engine has hydraulic lifters, much like many automobiles, and you don`t see adjustable pushrods used on any pushrod equipped cars, ever...
The piston in the lifter has the same oil pressure inside, no matter what position in the bore it is. How do you figure you can change this by adjusting the pushrod length?
I think most of the valvetrain noise that people are trying to solve by playing with adjustable lifters is not lifter noise at all, but excess backlash between the cam and pinion gear.
Adjustable pushrods do not add any performance to an engine, if fact they are heavier, so you are adding reciprocating weight in the valvetrain.
There it's no way you can compare a cast steel engine block, ie: small block Chevy. Too an all aluminum HD engine...plus the adjustment on an automobile engine or the preload is set by adjusting the rockers not adjustable pushrods. You wouldn't have access to the pushrods to adjust them any ways. that statement makes no sense.....and because of the decreased amount of expansion in the small block Chevy it only requires 3/4 to one full revolution at the rocker stud which is a 3/8x16 stud and what does that equate to maybe approximately .040" to .050" preload? Oh by the way internal combustion automobile engines are water cooled limiting the amount of expansion...
I have quick install push rods on mine. On a test ride after installation, two of them loosened up, talk about noisy! I pulled into a park, and with a 1/2" and a 7"16" wrench, and something to hold up the covers, I was back on the road in a short time. Just make sure they're tight. If I had it to do over again, I'd put the stock back in.
A million adjustable pushrods on the road with no problems, guess what, if you don't install or tighten everything else like it should be, they'll jingle rattle and fall off too.
Well I managed to get it tore down and the head gasket was blown for sure.
Really worried that one of the head bolts was finger loose when I go in there but that was where the head gasket was blown. The base gasket came off in many pieces as well.
Heads and jugs were sent off to the machine shop and should have them back tomorrow or Friday. Really hoping everything bolts back up fine this weekend.
Question: I heard some say I should replace the head bolts but I thought I read somewhere on here that it is not required. Thoughts?
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