EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Which stator, RR and rotor

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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 09:47 PM
  #11  
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[QUOTE=Rob85WG;14504253]I have a 1969 triumph that has a stator, bridge rectifier, zener diode, and a battery. It's stock and there is nothing else in the charging system.


your cheating -- the British like warm beer because they have Lucas refrigerators
 
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 09:53 PM
  #12  
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[QUOTE=johnjzjz;14504368]
Originally Posted by Rob85WG
I have a 1969 triumph that has a stator, bridge rectifier, zener diode, and a battery. It's stock and there is nothing else in the charging system.


your cheating -- the British like warm beer because they have Lucas refrigerators
Yes but Harley overbuilt parts so they would still work even after they fell off the bike
 
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 05:07 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
Accel was bought or sold out every thing is fake - the out side of the boxes the parts are in says the box is made in the USA < are you ready for that ****
I could believe it but what an insult. Where are H-D getting their ignition parts made now?

In general, I'd be ready for German and Japanese parts any day. I've seen inside a few Porsche engines etc and the Japanese seem to be a great deal of attention into getting things right now. Obviously we know that many of the rest of the H-D electrics are made there.

And you can bet anything that does not have a 'Made in' label is made in China and that's why they are hiding it.

The CE rectifier/regulator is a joy to behold. It's about twice the mass of an H-D one and very well finished. Ditto the stator. The kit is very well assembled and the instructions are good enough for a rank beginner to follow.

Apparently the corrosion issue arose after the makers swopped from grease paper to plastic bags which makes sense as what do things is plastic bags do ... especially if they come from hot and humid environments. Sweat and corrode. You would not have seen the Germans or Japanese sending out the H-D rotor though, the Accel ones look much better.

That's why I would want to open a kit in front of me before I bought it to make sure I had a good one. Declining industry standards and the shifting of it to companies 1,000s of miles away are one thing, the domination of marketing by minimum wage box shifting operations will be the end of civilization!

Support your local independent.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 07:07 AM
  #14  
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I put Cycle Electric on my old Evo. The stator has a higher temp rating which means it will not break down like the OEM did in 5K. It's windings develop a higher current output even at an idle, and the voltage regulator is not the short to ground style which force the stator to run at maximum at all times.

That being said I used double star washers on both regulator bolts to make better ground contact. I still had issues. A wise EVO owner suggested a secondary ground wire from the regulator bolt to an engine block bolt. When I installed that wire I suddenly was getting full charging voltage. The wiring and connections were all good but for some reason that additional ground wire made a huge difference.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 08:54 AM
  #15  
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OK, a Zener diode, yeah, I'll buy that. But Harley regulators have not been like that for a very long time, if ever. I pulled apart regulators back in shovelhead days, like >30 years ago, and there was a modern integrated circuit voltage regulator inside on a PC board.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 12:41 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
OK, a Zener diode, yeah, I'll buy that. But Harley regulators have not been like that for a very long time, if ever. I pulled apart regulators back in shovelhead days, like >30 years ago, and there was a modern integrated circuit voltage regulator inside on a PC board.
Man, you're old.....Hi Doc!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 03:43 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
a secondary ground wire from the regulator bolt to an engine block bolt. When I installed that wire I suddenly was getting full charging voltage.
When you say "regulator bolt", do you mean where the built in ground wire earths to or where it's supporting frame bolts on?

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Lucky Luke
When you say "regulator bolt", do you mean where the built in ground wire earths to or where it's supporting frame bolts on?

Thanks
Where it bolts to the frame. I thought it was overkill but in my situation it worked. I was told about this by an Evo experienced mechanic.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 07:04 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Rev the motor. If it shows varying amps with RPM, up to 25 amps with no other major load going on (like every light plus charging the battery, etc.) then, OK, I'll believe it. Otherwise, nope, don't think it works that way, not buying it.
Here is a guy who dissected and reverse engineered two OEM regulators. The high current components were oriented in what appears to be a combination of series and shunting SCRs (gate controlled diodes).





As Dr Hess stated it is easy to measure with a current clamp. I've never done it but a guy on the XL forum did and he has a complete pictorial of his conversion to a series style regulator.

Bike is warmed up in both cases so battery is not depleted in either case.
Before conversion at 2100 RPM.~ 26 amps


After conversion at 2100 RPM ~ 15 amps


Other guys have noted a dramatic decrease in stator and regulator temperature. There should be a decrease in drag on the engine with the reduction in stator output as well.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 10:46 AM
  #20  
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Well, wha-da-ya-know. Can't argue with a Fluke. I may have to get me one of those clamp on meters, just, you know, to confirm and not as an excuse to buy another tool with my HF 20% off coupon....

Fortunately, our Sportster uses up all 19 amps that stator puts out, so no problem on that one.
 
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