I just replaced my charging system on my 99 EVO and wanna make sure I got this right before I button it back up, my spidey senses tell me somethings not right. With everything all put back together on the compensating sprocket (left side, clutch side didn't get touched) except the sprocket nut I can turn the clutch and sprocket freely but once I throw on the nut and tighten it up it locks up and no longer spins freely, does that sound right or should I be able to spin it still? It also didn't get knocked into gear accidentally. Am I on the right path or did I miss something? And the center nut gets done up real tight like it was comming off? Can't find a torque spec in my manual and details are kinda sparse, or maybe it was the 2 dozen crown & gingers tonight thanks in advance guys

 

The crank nut is 160 ft/lbs and must be red loctited....stuff changes as you do it up and the sprocket should not move when it is all tightened up.


Primary chain looks slack as...

 

Once tightened the compensating sprocket shouldn't turn unless the motor is turning.
As Spanners said 160 is good.
Book spec is 150 -165.
Make sure you use a lot of red locktight as you don't want it coming loose.
The book calls for 2 drops but I use a crap load more than that and haven't had a problem yet.

Chain does look loose though.

FWIW I would put heim joints on that tranny linkage if I were you.

 

Yea, still gota adjust the chain tension. Just wanted to make sure the whole assembly was supposed to be locked up like that before I buttoned it all up. Thanks guys, much appreciated!

 

Can't tell by the pic or my bad eyes
Is the C clip back on the inside of the clutch?

 

A little hack for getting the crank nut torqued.

The manual will show a jamb bar to hold the compensator sprocket and clutch basket in place for when you try and torque it down.

A combination wrench just the Right length will jamb it up nicely without damaging the teeth.

Just takes some playing around to find the right whrench haha.

 

I just use a little blue Loctite on mine and put the nut on with an impact wrench. I like to be able to get them apart when needed. No problem at least for the last 4 years and I shift down a lot when coming to a stop.

 

It would spin easier if you take the spark plugs out.
When you tighten the nut down, you've locked the comp to the crankshaft, and then when you try spinning it, you're turning the motor, doesn't matter about the transmission, that's downstream from the comp, even in neutral you're still fighting engine compression. Normal, in other words.

I use red loctite and a torque wrench, only use the impact for taking the nuts off, and got one of those stepped plastic jam things that fit all Harley primary sprockets, was cheap..

I notice your chain tension shoe is getting brownish; they all do, but can/will crack eventually. This is the one out of my '89, granted it's older than yours and might have been on the whole 120,000 miles on the bike, but still something worth checking if you didn't already. The damage didn't show till I took the front plate off.